SquareMeal Review of
Turners at 69
Following a radical re-think in 2016, Richard Turner re-branded his quirky Harborne restaurant, extending the opening times and replacing his intricate tasting menus with a more accessible, customer-friendly carte offering “great value for the quality on offer”. It was a move that bucked the current trend for ‘fine dining’ in Brum. Turner is a chef “who believes in letting the food do the talking”, although there are “no ridiculous combinations” on his lively seasonal line-up – just straight-talking, creative modern ideas. To start, cured salmon might be paired with slow-cooked belly, soy, wasabi and mooli, while mains could run from rabbit with langoustine, butternut squash, cabbage, mustard and marjoram to monkfish with Jersey royals, crab, peas, crème fraîche and lettuce. After that, go for ‘properly matured’ cheeses or something sweetly comforting – perhaps raspberry soufflé or duck-egg crème brûlée with vanilla, Yorkshire rhubarb and strawberry. To drink, there’s a choice of eclectic wines and a fascinating selection of food-friendly bottled beers (put together with help from Warwickshire’s Purity Brewing Co).