SquareMeal Review of The Delaunay
Like its sibling The Wolseley, this "lovely buzzy restaurant" bears all the hallmarks of a Corbin & King success story, from "spot-on" service to please-all cooking for a big-city crowd. No wonder The Delaunay has become a perennial favourite on all counts: the welcome is "always friendly" and the David Collins interior "impresses straightaway" with its glossy dark wood, gleaming brass and polished stone floors. There's an "old-school Viennese" vibe here, so expect to find wiener schnitzel, choucroute and rich borscht, as well as traditional dishes from elsewhere in Europe such as chicken Kiev and the ever-popular kedgeree. Tempting patisserie and viennoiserie – including an exemplary sachertorte – are worth a visit alone: luckily the adjoining Counter at The Delaunay sells many of these goodies to go. We urge you to book ahead for the phenomenally popular pre-theatre slot, or start your day in splendid fashion with a gut-busting breakfast. In short, "a great London institution".
About The Delaunay
With the same old world romantic feel to it as its sibling, this central London restaurant is from the team behind The Wolseley, and you can feel it in the sumptuous decor and high standard of service. The Delaunay is a grand space in the centre of theatreland that is modelled on the grand cafes of Mittel-Europe and serves up a menu packed with classics.
Open for all day dining, a visit to The Delaunay is a welcome treat no matter the time of day. For lunch there’s a selection of sandwiches ranging from an indulgent lobster-filled roll to a rich and cheesy rarebit, and if you happen in later on in the day then you can enjoy heartier fare from the all day menu - moules, schnitzel or confit duck, say. Aside from the main food offering there is also a popular afternoon tea and brunch which make for a treat come the weekend.
Tables fill up fast so booking ahead is recommended, but there are always a handful of spaces reserved for walk ins, in case you fancy a spontaneous trip to one of London’s premier dining destinations.
The kitchen is headed up by Adam Middleton, who began his hospitality career at Glowbal in Vancouver before returning to the UK and working within prestigious locations such Bord'eaux, Caprice Holdings, Bocca Di Lupo and Le Coq. Adam joined the Corbin & King team in 2016 and became executive sous chef within 18 months, before taking the role as Head Chef at Colbert for two years, he then took the helm of The Delaunay in the summer of 2019.