SquareMeal Review of
Occupying a prime spot on Upper Street, Trawler Trash is perfectly placed to haul in north London’s adventurous seafood lovers. They are hooked by a menu specialising in the lesser-known and loved fruits of our seas, where octopus, herring, sardines and cuttlefish are only the starting point. A first course of wreck fish and sea trout sashimi with wakame and fresh wasabi is as light and fresh as it comes; charred octopus with green tomatoes and chilli arrives meltingly tender and sweet. Mains include a beer-battered hake (for those reluctant to dip their toes too deep into unfamiliar waters), kipper carbonara and a flaky, perfectly cooked fillet of ling with buttery cauliflower purée, Puy lentils and meaty oyster mushrooms. Bare brick, a chilled soundtrack and wall art of deep-blue and sea-green swirls keep the theme nautical and laid back. To drink, a well-chosen selection of whites, including oft-overlooked Albariño, comes with helpful pairing suggestions, and the list is bolstered by plenty of local craft ales and unusual cocktails such as the Trashtini (gin, Noilly Prat and pickle juice). An elegant space for sampling sustainable fish and seafood worth shelling out for.