While Putney is home to plenty of flat white-slinging cafes and neighbourhood brunch spots, you could probably count its list of ‘great places to go for dinner’ on one hand. Chook Chook, a modern curry house styled on an Indian train carriage, would undoubtedly be in that line-up, the idea being that you ‘travel’ from North to South via a menu of regional Indian dishes.
Atmospheric interiors bring that point to life. The dining room has been designed to resemble a vintage train carriage with dark wood walls, emerald leather booths, faux antique lampshades and brushed brass fittings. The effect is actually quite beautiful, and incredibly atmospheric, enough to give the Dishooms of the world a run for their money. Details are taken seriously here. Copper tableware and tin plates pay homage to the sort you'd find on Indian trains, while dishes are finished with micro greenery and edible flowers. If you’re wondering whether the above makes it a culprit for serving up style over substance, we can assure you, it does not.
We begin at ‘Chaat Junction’ with a classic northern Indian snack of Dahi Sevpuri - puffed puri shells filled with a flavour bomb combo of spicy potatoes, cooling yoghurt and tangy tamarind chutney. Many of its curries lean towards the north’s richer, heavily spiced dishes, including a delicious ‘Railway Chicken’ curry studded with firm new potatoes, and an unctuous lamb number (the restaurant’s signature) served in a fragrant Kerahi masala sauce. We soak these up with ghee-washed slices of coconut-filled Peshwari naan. If you can save room for one of its chocolate samosas, which are exactly what one would expect from crisp pastry filled with liquid chocolate, please do.
Prices are refreshingly reasonable, with chaats about £6 each, curries around £12, and desserts just a fiver. All this adds up to a dining experience that pretty much ticks every box. No wonder it was jammed with locals on a casual Tuesday night.