Nessa

Tucked on the corner of Brewer and Warwick streets, Nessa offers a welcome pause from Soho’s usual frenzy. Set on the ground floor of private member’s club, 1 Warwick, Nessa draws its creative spirit from Vanessa Bell (Nessa to her friends) a central figure of the Bloomsbury Group - a collection of artists, writers and thinkers who once roamed these very streets.

We’re not here to delve fully into our own personal creativity, but Nessa does it for us, both in its design and its approach to modern British dining. The front bar immediately sets the tone; it’s a softly lit space, lined with plush armchairs where you can settle in for cocktails and bar snacks. Beyond it, the dining room opens out, flanked by the gentle glow of the open kitchen and floor-to-ceiling windows that let in the remains of the evening light. There’s a slightly Mediterranean feel to the space, with its tumbling greenery and terracotta banquettes, softened by bronze accents and abstract artworks.

The menu mirrors that balance with quietly inventive plates. Soda bread arrives warm from the oven, its dense, nutty crumb made all the better by a generous spread of generously salted cultured butter. Truffle cheese crumpets follow - fluffy, oblong, and laden with a rich, truffle-infused cream and a generous snowfall of grated Parmesan. It’s hearty and cleverly executed.

There’s plenty more to shout about, from a smoked salmon tartare punched up with capers, orange slices and cranberries, to butter-glossed mushroom ravioli, finished with toasted hazelnuts for a subtle nutty sweetness and a welcome crunch. The roast rump of lamb is an equal highlight - perfectly pink and tender, it arrives with a quenelle of cauliflower puree, and a rich jus that ties everything together. It’s confident cooking, with no need for unnecessary flourishes, simply letting the ingredients speak for themselves.

There’s something quietly assured about Nessa. It doesn’t shout for attention but consistently delivers. It may be well known, but it still manages to feel like one of the city’s best-kept secrets.

Nessa is a stylish art deco restaurant and bar on the ground floor of 1 Warwick in Soho, home to elegant, modern British cooking. The Nessa menu combines seasonal British produce with international inspiration to create dishes that present British cuisine in an inventive, modern light.

Meanwhile, the dining room itself is relaxed and informal, despite its members' club location. It sits on the corner of Brewer Street and Warwick Street, making this a perfect spot to enjoy a coffee and a bite to eat while you watch Soho life go by. The interiors - and indeed the members' club above - take lots of inspiration from the history of Soho, with decor and artwork that draws on the work of Bohemian artists and influence also taken from the eclectic Soho establishments of years gone by.

As for the building, this renovated 1910 neo-baroque townhouse is one of Soho's most impressive. Edwardian architecture meets mid-century modern vintage furniture, art and textural fabrics in the bar, whilst the dining room is a little more refined - think brushed oak and marble fixtures and plush banquette seating. And of course, there's some outdoor seating on Brewer Street and Warwick Street too; outside tables are nicely shaded thanks to awnings, making this a prime spot for al fresco wining and dining in Soho.

While the menu changes with the seasons, for an idea of what to expect take a look at the online sample offering. Currently, you'll find small plates like aged beef rump tartare with beef dripping charred seeded loaf and confit egg, rubbing up next to larger plates like Cornish hake with white beans, chilli, lemon and herb crumb, as well as beer brined chicken with winter greens and buckwheat.