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5-7 Blandford Street
0203 3706 6260
Simon Rogan has had a busy year with two new London openings. He has diversified his London offering, first with chef’s table Aulis in Soho, and now with this resurrection of his much-lauded pop up Roganic, which ran for two years in 2011 and takes some elements from the chef’s two Michelin-starred L’Enclume. Roganic’s focus is on supremely fresh ingredients, often sourced from Rogan’s own farm in Cumbria, with head chef Oliver Marlow (part of the original Roganic line-up) overseeing 10- and 14-course tasting menus of dainty but dynamic plates.
Everything we tried was near perfect, from the intensely creamy starting snack of a preserved raspberry tart rooted with an earthy beetroot base, to a dessert of apple slices caramelised into a bundle of sweetness that is almost too pretty to eat. More unconventional dishes include ice-cold scallops which first freeze the mouth before giving way to a topping of sour apple and gooseberry chunks, and a ramekin of unassuming-looking custard, which surprises with its savoury, saline notes of seaweed and caviar. The only dud is the dry-aged duck that is hyped up with a tableside visit from Marlow, but turned up minus the super-crispy skin we were promised.
France leads the European-focused wine list (good luck finding much below £45), while wine flights are supplemented by a dozen by-the-glass options, and there are also Cumbrian beers and gin. Service is positively warm and friendly. The restaurant’s understated interior (complete with 80s-style cane Cesca chairs) may not be to all tastes – not least given the not-very-understated prices – but Roganic excels at remixing the fine-dining of old in an exciting, and most importantly delicious, way.
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Best Restaurants in Marylebone
SquareMeal 3 Stars
SquareMeal's Hottest New Openings
From: 22 June 2018
To: 31 December 2018
Look for the "£" icon when booking (offers only available on certain days/times)
5-7 Blandford Street
0203 3706 6260
Bond Street Tube Station 472m
Baker Street Tube Station 614m
The Wallace Collection 116m
Wigmore Street 260m
Tues-Thurs 12N-2pm 6.30-9.15pm Fri-Sat 12N-1.30pm 5.30-9.15pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 5
Oh hello Simon Rogan, nice to see you again. We've had our ups and downs, haven't we. I love l'enclume, one of the best dining experiences I've ever had, and I'd put it up there with the Fat Duck. But Fera... My gateway into Michelin star restaurants, we never really got on since our first time have we...?
The space is very much like l'encume when you enter, paired down and not nearly as ornate as Fera, there's no stained glass window in the ceiling here, but more the greys and browns I'd associate with Simon Rogan, very earthy.
We are greeted by a very bubbly maître d' who welcomes us and we start with a glass of champagne. We are informed that there's just the tasting menu on tonight. All 19 courses of it. I undo a belt notch. We order the wine pairing too, I don't have the wine knowledge to be able to pick something to complement even one course, let alone 19, I usually leave this to the experts.
Now for the courses... I'm not going to run through all 19, I'd be here forever, but the standout ones for me are the seaweed custard, the salt baked celeriac, something I really need to learn how to cook, the dry aged duck, a thing of beauty, and when my dining companion asks if it's better than hers the answer is a resounding yes (sorry Alexa...) she totally agrees.
Desserts are also great, but I'm a savoury fan. Though I am going through a rhubarb phase at the minute...
We get a lovely breakfast goodie bag for the morning, but after 19 courses we won't be eating for a while... Maybe 3 or 4 days or so...
I'll be back to see you here, I'd rank it among the best in London, and certainly up there with my favourites of Pollen Street Social and Bibendum. It doesn't quite have the feel of l'enclume, understandable considering it's not based in a tiny village in the Lake District surrounded by countryside, but it's certainly the London version. L'enclume: The London Edition.
We've eaten Simon Rogan's food at the pop-up a few years back and since then at Fera and at L'Enclume. Probably fair to say that if we had to pick a single restaurant for a meal to remember, then at any time these last five years it would have been one of his.
I haven't really got much to say about the food at this Roganic, for there were no surprises . Ingredients were spectacularly fresh and tasty, cooked to their maximum potential. Combinations that you might at first think "that won't work" and you pretty much always find that it does, and quite beautifully at that. The restaurant had only been open a week or so when we turned up, and we were ready to forgive any minor hiccup resulting from the place bedding in. But no need; it was great form from the outset helped I believe that many of the kitchen and front of house staff are veterans of the pop-up and other Rogan restaurants.
I do though want to pass comments on the restaurant itself. When you walk through the rather odd entrance to Fera you're almost overwhelmed my the quality and opulence of the room you've walked into. At L'Enclume there's no opulence, but there's a palpable stylishness about the stone walls and wooden furniture, and the latter is particularly beautifully made. At the pop-up no-one had expectations as it was common knowledge it wouldn't be there long. The new Roganic did I'm afraid remind me of a chinese restaurant, 1970's style. The structure, layout, decoration and furnishings seemed to me to be at odds with the the quality of food and service and innovation emerging from the kitchen. My guess is that there will be people, who having looked forward to a very special occasion and are now looking at a bill of maybe £250 for two, will be somewhat disappointed at the environment in which they sat for a couple of hours . Maybe some people will not think that the food's great (it is) so it doesn't much matter what the place is like. Maybe they expect some synergy between the food, the place and the bill? Won't deter us, & in fact we have another reservation for next month. But there is a notable dissonance here.
I would also have appreciated a few more bottles at the lower end of the wine list.
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