SquareMeal Review of
Formerly known as Quattro Passi, QP LDN brings the Amalfi coast (or its flavours, at least) to London, producing “a delightful experience” suited to special occasions and deep pockets. If the atmosphere and service can feel a little formal at times, “impeccable” front-of-house ministrations and a “lovely ambience” come in for praise from readers. Chef Antonio Mellino’s take on Italian cooking is bright, sharp and a long way from mama’s bosom – witness openers of squid tagliatelle with cauliflower or langoustine risotto with peach (fruit makes its way into several unlikely places), followed by sea bass fillet with courgette cream and Mediterranean salsa or some simply grilled chicken. Puddings are often centred on one ingredient (hazelnuts or raspberries, say), but also embrace homemade pistachio gelato and the rich citrus hit of warm orange tart with bitter chocolate. Wines are marked up with an enthusiasm that can seem excessive even on Dover Street.