SquareMeal Review of
Burro e Salvia East Dulwich
Based on the fresh-pasta joints of northern Italy, this stripped-back venue offers a tight eat-in menu of impressive pasta dishes, a buy-by-weight takeaway for can’t-be-bothered nights, plus pasta-making workshops for the days when you are able to spare the time. The open kitchen, where fleet-fingered pasta-makers prepare the various ‘folds’ on the menu, is overlooked by the small, contemporary dining room – all mustard-yellows and soft greys in geometric patterns. Signature specials include agnolotti cavour: tender ravioli filled with a rich, melt-in-the-mouth mixture of pork, beef and spinach, then drenched in a butter sauce. The weekly changing dishes are packed with seasonal highlights, such as tortelli stuffed with tangy ricotta and served with fresh asparagus, or springy strands of tagliolini with monk’s beard (a classic Tuscan ingredient) and meaty anchovies. It’s all backed up by solicitous service and a one-page wine list packed with interesting, artisan wines by the glass.