SquareMeal Review of
Agnar Sverrisson’s profile has been rising of late (deservedly so) and if Michelin-starred Texture is the high-flyer in the group, his three 28°-50° wine bars are near-perfect models of the genre. The interior design spec is ‘industrial warehouse meets your favourite local bistro’, so let’s have a drink first. It’s quite a simple proposition: 15 reds and 15 whites by the glass, carafe or bottle, ever-changing and always interesting, plus a host of sweet wines, rums, Cognacs and – if you’re lucky – an English fizz giving the French a run for their money. There’s a ‘collector’s list’, too, where you’ll find some damn fine vintage bottles. To eat, an all-day bar menu serves up La Fromagerie cheeses and posh burgers, while the main line-up might take you from goose and mustard terrine to Eton Mess, via steaks cooked on the grill or sea bream with an Asian broth.
28-50 Maddox Street and Champagne Henriot are hosting a Champagne & Oysters pop-up bar for four nights between 14 and 17 February. Enjoy six oysters and two glasses of Henriot NV poured from double magnum (Jeroboam) for just £30.