When it comes to Indian fine dining in London, Atul Kochhar is part of the furniture. At Kanishka, he cooks with the same finesse that previously scored him two Michelin stars, ensuring this place stands out from the rest of the slick Mayfair crowd.
Inside, it’s sharp and graphic, anchored by deep petrol-blue wainscoting and mirrored tiles that give the room a welcome touch of retro-glamour. Colourful expressionist portraits inject some artsy energy to break up the architectural symmetry, but beyond that, Kanishka feels cool and neutral - perfectly calibrated for celebratory dinners or more formal business lunches.
As for the food? Expect classy cooking across a dizzying array of menus. We can thoroughly recommend the multi-course tasting menu if you want the full Kochhar experience, but the a la carte holds its own too. Famous signatures - like the legendary chicken tikka pie - are present, correct and as good as ever. It's absolute proof that chicken tikka done right is a beautiful thing, especially when wrapped in golden shortcrust pastry and paired with a tangy, sweet berry chutney.
There’s a neat balance here between inventive flair and accessible classics. If you’re just after a really, really good curry, there’s a dedicated section featuring a majestic butter chicken and a stuffed paneer tikka makhani. We’d happily reorder the chunky stir-fried prawns, nestled in a rich sauce of ginger, peppers and tomatoes. Don’t be afraid to go overboard on sundries either - Kanishka’s garlic naans are a must-order, as is the signature black dal.
Desserts can often feel like an afterthought at Indian restaurants, but not here. The pistachio sponge with white chocolate mousse gets a clever, fragrant lift from saffron and a cinnamon anglaise, turning something potentially cloying into a surprisingly refreshing finish. This being Mayfair, dinner will inevitably put a dent in your wallet, but Kanishka’s Chef’s Selection set menu (available at lunch and early evening) lets you escape for under £30 a head. In this postcode, we’d call that a steal of gigantic proportions.