Bombay Bustle
Bombay Bustle
Bombay Bustle
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SquareMeal Review of Bombay Bustle

Silver Award

A second London opening from the Leela Palaces Group, this younger sibling of big-hitting Jamavar is a “jovial, fun place” that pays homage to the “dynamism of old Bombay’s dining scene”. Inspired by India’s dabbawala lunchbox deliveries, the menu is big on street food and chaat, while the decor sees bold colours, “a heavy dose of art deco” and references to the subcontinent’s railway network – look out for the nifty hat rack-cum-mirror, overhead luggage racks and cut-glass screens.

Small plates typify the kitchen’s ambitions: doughy naan topped with lightly spiced scrambled egg and earthy truffle shavings; vegetable samosas wrapped in never-bettered pastry and lashed with refreshing mint chutney; chunks of “intensely flavoured” quail coated in Kashmiri chilli paste; warm chunks of meltingly tender goat meat served with bread rolls for dipping.

The menu is bulked out by more substantial items including tandoori lamb chops, venison rogan josh and a “wonderfully flavoursome and diverse” seafood biryani, but we’d recommend the mild Madras chicken curry, accompanied by a side of rice and a moreish wafer-thin podi dosa, ideal for scooping up leftovers.

We enjoyed what we ate, although heat and spice have been toned down for risk-averse Mayfair palates. “Lovely cocktails”, a sundae bar and knowledgeable staff are further pluses at this diverting destination, which also has the advantage of being more affordable than other high-end Indians this side of Regent Street. Appropriately, there’s plenty of “bustle” at lunchtime, and we’re told it gets even livelier in the evening.

 

 

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Indian
Ambience
Cool, Quirky
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegetarian options
People
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Special occasions

Location for Bombay Bustle

29 Maddox Street, London, W1S 2PA

020 7290 4470

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon 12:00-14:30
Tue 12:00-14:30
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri 12:00-14:30
Sat 12:00-14:30
Sun 11:00-15:00
Dinner
Mon 17:30-22:30
Tue 17:30-22:30
Wed 17:30-22:30
Thu 17:30-22:30
Fri 17:30-22:30
Sat 17:30-22:30
Sun 17:30-21:30

Reviews of Bombay Bustle

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1 Review 
Food/Drink
Service
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Mr. Alex G

Full marks
08 January 2018  
Mayfair doesn’t have any shortage of good Indian restaurants, but Bombay Bustle – despite its somewhat ridiculous name – is a welcome addition to the scene. It combines excellence of cooking with a relaxed informality in a beautifully designed room. The restaurant is the second offering from the group behind Jamavar and many of the same elements can be seen at both venues. The angle behind Bombay Bustle is to pay homage to the dynamism of the Bombay dining scene, recreating many classic local dishes and serving them in a room designed to mimic the city in its heyday, albeit a refined part. Décor wise, take a heavy dose of art deco and add in a few bold colours (greens and pinks) and this is what you get at Bombay Bustle. Even if a local citizen may not recognise the Mayfair-style reinterpretation of their city (located on the site of the former Hibiscus), it is the cooking that counts. My dining comrade and I were encouraged to sample three small dishes and one or two larger ones (we went for two – obviously in the interests of research). Pricing is fair, with the former priced in the £5-10 range and the latter at around £15. Chef Rohit Ghai apparently takes his inspiration from both Bombay’s heritage and his mother’s own kitchen and there is an undoubted originality to the menu. Among our small dishes, we were particularly impressed with the ‘quail 65’ and the rarah keema pao: respectively, some intensively flavoured pieces of the bird coated in a Kashmiri chilli paste; and, a deeply satisfying goat curry of which we could have eaten more. The mains were even better: some very tender roasted lamb and a wonderfully flavoursome and diverse sea food biryani. If there were a criticism, then it would simply be that the portion sizes could be smaller, since we were left well (too) sated by the meal’s close. Although we only partook in soft drinks, Bombay Bustle’s wine list looked interesting and would merit checking out. Even on a Friday lunchtime, there was a certain ‘bustle’ to the place. In the evenings, we were told, it gets livelier. A return visit is definitely in order.
Food & Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

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