The Goodman chain may have arrived here from Russia, but the whole package is ‘as close to an American steakhouse as you can get', says one admirer who loves its stylish, fun-loving vibe and clubby intimacy – think polished mahogany, leather booths and monochrome scenes of 1950s' Americana. Take your time as ‘brilliant' staff proffer free bread and talk you through the various slabs of raw protein from the in-house ageing room: ‘exceptional beef’ is the deal, with prime cuts from the UK and US backed by highly ranked burgers – plus some luxurious crustacea. Classy starters such as lobster cocktail are worth a punt, ridiculously seductive truffle chips add that ‘special something’, and there are indulgent cinnamon-dusted doughnuts to finish. Prices take no prisoners, but most readers clamour for more – particularly with the promise of cult American reds to quaff.