31 October 2015
The Wright Brothers' third eponymous London seafood venue (after Borough market and Soho) opened a couple of months ago down the road from us in South Kensington. And Mr B and I, fishy aficionados that we are, felt it our moral duty to check it out.
The word 'cosy' cropped up a lot on the reviews, and turned out to be no understatement. We must have been one of eight tables max, which was actually rather fun - as if we'd been transported to some tiny Parisian bistro-y living room, rather than a proper restaurant. It was a Les Deux Magots meets J Sheekey moment (albeit shrunk to dollhouse-ian proportions).
Predictably enough, 'J Sheekey' cropped up a lot that evening- their shadow looming large. 'The problem', Mr B articulated as he munched through his £9 fish soup starter, ' 'is that Sheekeys does everything so blummin perfectly that it is virtually impossible to compete'. Which, I fear (talking about the same price bracket), isn't actually far from the truth.
That said, it was nice enough, as were my Japanese dressed oysters (at £3 a pop - their motto 'from sea to plate' obviously briefly diverting via East Asia). Mains were again on a par with Sheekey price-wise, and good, but sadly - inevitably - in Mr B's case at least, not quite as good as old JS. I, though, was delighted, for once, to have the option of munching my way through my very own shellfish-for-one-platter (pretty reasonable - and actually massive - at £16).
Where Wright Brothers really shone, though, was in the service: such a sweet, attentive French chap who checked our progress so earnestly (but not table-joiningly zealously) that we felt properly guilty for declining dessert.
I thought the wine list, too, was impressively characterful and just the right size. We were tempted to walk on the wild side with an exotic Hungarian Pinot Grigio, but ended up playing it safe with a (delicious) southern French Chardonnay (Domaine La Croix Belle, Languedoc-Rousillon 2014).
All in all, I can't resist a pint sized, prawny, thumbs up (though I'm now curious as to whether Mr B with join me). -
To read Mr B's review, go to our blog