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London’s Iranians are prepared to trek across town for a table at this neighbourhood gem. Sufi’s interior may not dazzle – sand-coloured walls, pot plants and shisha pipes set the tone, along with some bizarre artwork – but the food comes in generous portions at low prices. Big bowls of traditional Persian soup kick things off, perhaps alongside some bread and punchy Middle Eastern dips. To follow, the charcoal grill turns out huge, flame-licked kebabs of marinated lamb and chicken, as well as a line-up of fish dishes all expertly cooked over the roaring coals. Hearty stews are there to warm the chillier nights, while Persian ice creams and sorbets offer an alternative to baklava for dessert. Delightful, lightning-fast service helps explain why the restaurant does a roaring trade in takeaways too.
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