Westerns Laundry

Fish, Modern European·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Westerns Laundry

Silver Award

Despite a “rather lonely” location in suburban Drayton Park, this sibling of Stoke Newington big hitter, Primeur, has proved its worth as a local destination that’s “something a bit different from the rest”. Occupying the ground floor of a 1950s industrial building, Westerns Laundry’s fashionably stark interior is brightened up with jugs of flowers, blue velvet banquettes and vivid paintings, while floor-to-ceiling glazed doors open onto a wide terrace. The daily blackboard menu focuses on small plates of seasonal food (chiefly fish) and the results are “absolutely delightful”: oysters are perked up with finely chopped shallot and lemon; home-salted sardine fillets are elegantly dressed with white balsamic vinegar; wild sea bass is accompanied by ribbons of sweet onions, artichoke hearts and succulent olives. Also, don’t miss Westerns Laundry’s version of fideuà, a traditional Andalusian one-pot dish of short pasta baked with seafood. If fish isn’t your bag, there are other beautifully composed dishes including creamy gnudi served with colourful courgettes and chopped hazelnuts. Wines are on point, with the emphasis on low intervention and small-scale producers. 

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Fish, Modern European
Ambience
Cool, Fun, Lively, Quirky, Unique
Other Awards
SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegetarian options
People
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About Westerns Laundry

Westerns Laundry sits tucked away in North London but is a serious big-hitter when it comes to seafood. Menus, scrawled on the chalkboard each day, change constantly. The common theme, however, is top-quality seafood, prepared in creative ways with excellent British vegetables. From the cellar, you can expect a selection of low-intervention wines from small, independent producers. 

Dishes vary in size, from modest snacks to large feasting plates. We recommend going in a group so you can cover as much ground as possible. Pickles might be the first thing to arrive, or perhaps oysters with shallot vinegar. It's worth mentioning that, while this probably isn't the best place to take a vegetarian, there are some fish-free dishes. Gem lettuce, spiked with anchovy and dusted with parmesan might start off the veg meal. From there, you might see ricotta and spinach malfatti with hazelnuts and wild garlic or cow curds with braised courgettes, mint and crumbs as a mains-sized plate.

Back to the seafood, which is the star of the show. Smaller plates celebrate fish and shellfish beautifully, with entries like raw gurnard with chilli and coriander or classic mussels with white wine, garlic and parsley. Later in the meal, the energy is sustained by creations like monkfish with white beans, artichoke and salmoriglio (a herby Italian sauce) or pollock with sea beets, pink firs and warm tartare sauce. If you are more of a meat person, there's usually a large meat plate like lamb leg with polenta, chard and black olive. 

Desserts here are just as decadent as what precedes them, so you might see a giant rum-soaked baba to follow. Aside from the independent wines, diners at Westerns Laundry can opt for a negroni, house beer or vermouth spritz, as well as a range of teas. For creative seafood in north London, this is definitely worth a stop.


FAQs

What kind of food is there at Westerns Laundry?

Creative seafood dishes, with some meatier and vegetarian options.

Helpful? 0

Location

34 Drayton Park, Islington, London, N5 1PB

020 7700 3700

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat 12:00-14:30
Sun 12:00-14:30
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 17:30-22:30
Wed 17:30-22:30
Thu 17:30-22:30
Fri 17:30-22:30
Sat 17:30-22:30
Sun 17:30-21:00

Reviews

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5 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Jared H

27 June 2022   - Verified Diner
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 4

Cool setting lovely ambience and vibe.

Food was great, really tasty yet simple flavours. Burratta dish was so good.

Setup was cool, just wish the glasses were a little nicer. I had a Negroni and the glass was a bit child tumbler like. That would be my only negative of a great lunch.

Tammy N

24 June 2022   - Verified Diner
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
Hidden Gem

Gem of a restaurant. Wonderful relaxed atmosphere, with an open indoor outdoor vibe, our dinner of oysters, parpadelle and turbot was very good. It's a little hidden and off the beaten track but that's what makes it a gem.

Tammy N

24 June 2022   - Verified Diner
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Marian D

08 April 2019  
Buzzy atmosphere, friendly service and original food. An excellent local.

Piglet

31 August 2017  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
Excellent, a little bit different!
I'm lucky that I get to eat out in London fairly regularly, but if there is a “downside”, it is that no matter how good the restaurant after a while it all gets a bit samey. Well, Westerns Laundry offers something "a bit different from the rest". We had booked a table in advance and just as well we had as it was pretty full by the time we arrived at 7.30pm on a beautiful sunny Friday evening. The front of the restaurant opens up completely and there are big communal tables in the middle with smaller individual ones around the edges, it’s pretty cramped, with industrial style décor, but was a really cool space. Within seconds of our arrival we were greeted and seated and offered tasters of the white wine to help us choose – we went for a very nice Austrian Gruner Veltliner (2 bottles in fact). The plates are small, for sharing, and are mostly seafood, and they came out thick and fast. Our meal was absolutely delightful, from the plate of Iberica ham, to the superb home-made bread with the salted sardines in olive oil and ray wing with capers and brown butter, artichoke salad and silky smooth angel hair pasta with squid ink sauce and cod cheeks, all finished off with a selection of cheeses. I would definitely go back, but I it is in a rather lonely location in North London (but only a 15 minute taxi ride away from where I live) and at £140 inc service for 3 of us, excellent value considering the quality of food and cooking.
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