The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell

Silver Award
11 Reviews
££££
Fusion, International

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SquareMeal Review of The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell

Silver Award

Given that she was born in Canada, raised in New Zealand and has parents with Belgian/Danish roots, it’s no surprise that fusion queen Anna Hansen takes her foodie inspiration from far and wide. Like her former gaff, The Providores, this Clerkenwell townhouse eatery is a place of two halves, with a buzzy ground-floor café/traiteur and a serene upstairs dining room with clean-lined contemporary decor. Breakfast and brunch are popular shouts, although the kitchen delivers “tremendously flavoursome food from start to finish”. Aubergine dengaku is a Japanese favourite, served with pickled mushrooms, while other dishes take a more European approach – a salad of buffalo mozzarella, roasted fennel and roasted peach, perhaps. After that, expect a riot of flavours: chermoula-infused sea trout comes with pea and yuzu purée, onglet steak gets its oomph from miso and tamarind, and pavlova comes fired up with Asian flavours. As expected, the wine list is a fascinating globetrotting compendium.

Good to know about The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Fusion, International
Ambience
Buzzy
Food Occasions
Breakfast, Brunch
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating
People
Group dining [8+]

The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell Also Offers

The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell
Private Group Dining

Location for The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell

47-48 St John's Square, London, EC1V 4JJ

020 7553 9210

Website

Opening Times of The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell

Mon-Fri 8-11am 12N-10.30pm Sat-Sun 9am-4pm 6-10pm

Reviews of The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell

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11 Reviews
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anon

Ricotta pancake for a chilly day
04 February 2018
I had breakfast here and ordered my all-time favourite - pancakes. Theirs was a ricotta pancake with berry and liquorice compote and Neal’s Yard Dairy crème fraiche. The pancake was crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. The ricotta was delightfully creamy and smooth, which complemented perfectly with the berry and liquorice compote. The crème fraiche added an extra oomph to the overall flavours and made every bite blissfully divine.
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Anon

good but
26 February 2016
There are quite a few restaurants around here so I am never quite sure why The Modern Pantry is always so busy. Whilst the food , service and ambience and value for money are always good , I don't know any other eatery where the tables are so close to each other. Once I am sat down on a bench ,and wedged in by a table , I feel trapped until someone moves. And , as it's all Media , don't even think of talking about business unless you have pre-arranged codes. I had what I always have , the cereal and yogurt with pomegranate shavings - very good indeed. I just wish didn't always feel so trapped.
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Ms/Mrs. Rebecca L

Reasonably good but not quite worth the price
02 December 2015
I enjoyed my evening at Modern Pantry. Some of the food - especially the venison scotched eggs with a green pepper salsa were delicious. My main of venison was decent but I felt the portion was quite small which not something I think I've complained about before. My boyfriend's main, a laksa dish, was huge in comparison but he said it really lacked depth.The truffles we had for dessert were again decent but nothing special. Service was fine but nothing to write home about. For £65 a head I wasn't blown away. The restaurant itself is really gorgeous, especially the upstairs. It has quite an intimate feel to it. Would I return? Yes but not in a hurry.
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Ms/Mrs. Helen L

Style over substance
13 April 2015
Oh, Modern Pantry. The injustice. The cocktails were brilliant, with none of that twee, sugary nonsense. Instead, a reviving assortment heavy on earthy, botanical negronis and salty, sour martinis. And I was genuinely excited by the Saturday brunch menu, in all its cornbread and sambal-toting glory. Waffle with longons, you say? Yes please (that is, assuming that longons are just jumped-up lardons, which it transpires they are not). The plate arrived looking positively Narnian, with its ethereal dusting of icing sugar on a branch of lychee-esque fruit. But one question: how to eat it, without your fingers being papier-mached together by a goo of molten syrup and sweet fairy dust? My other half abandoned hope, and resorted to a post-brunch scotch egg at a nearby pub. Harrumph. This was the problem - everything was a bit under par. eggs Shakshuka, that treasured Ottolenghi staple, was under par; with squash-ball solid yolks and whole, untempered spices. A plantain fritter looked suspiciously like… well, just a hunk of fried banana. Yuzu hollandaise was a bit of a taste sensation, and not necessarily in a good way. Servers rocked man buns and alternative trouser lengths/shoe and sock combos. The place had a confident, trendy aesthetic that was just on the right side of contrived. Each peculiar, converted period room upstairs boasted walls decorated with art to buy, and a jaunty mismatch of furniture and crockery. It looked good, and initially appeared pitch perfect for its Clerkenwellian audience. But the kitchen simply couldn’t deliver the inspired dishes that flirted with brilliance within the confines of the printed menu only. (Mind you, the place was rammed from morning til afternoon tea, so I’m not sure I’m a reliable witness). In short, the food wasn’t up to scratch, and I don’t think we’d bother with second chances in this instance. Shame, as rendang for breakfast is pretty much culinary bliss.
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Ms/Mrs. Joanne W

A super brunch
16 December 2013
A great buzzy place for brunch, the menu had some really great options and everuthing was super tasty. Thank you also to the staff who were really friendly and helpful!
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Mr. Tim H

A good night out...
08 September 2013
Really tasty food. Service was great. Will return…
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Ms/Mrs. Jill E

Inspired.
27 April 2013
A very memorable place. Its not often I come across restaurants that I like so much, I enjoyed every aspect of the visit. They are inspired. The hosting staff offer welcoming assistance.I booked a reservation online and was given a wonderful upstairs table, the rooms are beautiful and sunny, huge windows, beautiful colours on the walls, lovely wood floors, friendly knowledgeable servers, and an inspired menu, and really pretty spacious loos too! As a vegetarian I was thrilled with my menu options . The liquorice salad was sublime and devine!! Its a must try. Delicate dancing flavours, perfect balance, textures, …loved every bit of it. Roast butternut squash with couscous and dates and cashews was really rich and perfectly cooked, creamy and lush and exciting, huge portion, could not finish it all. No pudding, just lunch. And a glass or the deeelish billecart bubbly. A perfect Friday afternoon.
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Ms/Mrs. Ella Y

08 April 2012
I took my partner to The Modern Pantry for his birthday as we’d wanted to go for a while. The Grade II listed building made me feel like I’d stepped back in time and was eating in an aristocrats town house. Saying that the staff were welcoming and the restaurant was elegantly laid out. The menu was extremely enticing as we both struggled to pick a starter as all the dishes sounded appetising. Being greedy we shared three starters: Chorizo scotch quail eggs, smoked duck and waffles with seaweed. Each dish had several flavours tickling the taste buds. Some may say too many, but we thought they’d got it just right. My only criticism with the starters were that they were a little cold, (which I noticed another reviewer mentioned). For the mains we went for the venison and seasonal lamb. We were both impressed as the flavours were divine and you had big pieces of meat but you were paying reasonable prices – we expected to pay a lot more. I opted for the cheese and biscuits after and had a good mix of hard and soft cheeses, whilst my partner had the ginger pudding – no ordinary ginger pudding as other flavours challenged your taste buds with this dish. I see The Modern Pantry changes the menu daily and we would go back again. The cold starters were a shame but the friendly staff, ambitious menu and thoroughly enjoyable evening makes you overlook these little niggles.
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Mr. Ian C

30 March 2011
Hugely ambitious dishes, beautifully presented and very interesting and different. Service mainly pretty good and cosy ambience to the upper floor, more buzzy downstairs. Imaginative offerings of suggested wines by the glass for particular dishes a good (though not cheap) option. Good value champagne as aperitif. Some dishes were not as hot as they could have been and wine was slow to appear with the matching dishes. Would go again happily though, and thinking of it as a venue for our office Christmas lunch this year.
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Mr. Shaan M

24 November 2008
I have been once a week since it has opened pretty much, and I love the food. I am always willing to allow a period of grace for the service while things kick in, I am sure that things will settle down at the Modern Pantry. Don't misuderstand me, the service is good, but with everything else that it has going for it – GREAT should be the word on my lips. Firstly I mirror the previous reveiw about the onglet – the last time i was there the table next to me were having a pretty similar conversation about the onglet. Now, if the CHEF recommends the onglet medium, then it is the servers job NOT TO ASK THE DINER HOW THEY WANT THE CUT COOKED – it is the job of the server to say ‘the chef recommends the onglet medium, as it brings the best out of the cut, i hope that will be all right for you’ – it is a simple thing. Secondly, the job of the maitre d' to welcome, charm, and manage – not only the the restaurant but also the customers expectations. I have visited a few restaurants during my spell on this planet and I am a happy regular customer at all the ones that are worth visiting…mainly due to the maitre d'. Now please don't take this the wrong way, I used to be a maitre d', I know how it works. I don't expect special atention, I don't expect freebies or better tables, all I want is welcoming service and a lack of attitude. If I had only visited the restaurant once the answer would be a simple one – someone was having a bad day, however i have been a few times more and either someone is really unlucky and having more than a bad day or ‘houston we have a problem’ This is no way intended as a dig, just a little wake up call, which for a new restaurant shuld not be happening so soon. I will still continue to go and eat the great food, what I can't work out is how long it will take for me to be welcome and happy.
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