Let’s get the rigmarole out of the way first. You can only reserve a slot at this diminutive sushi outfit over the phone: they operate a weekly booking system (at specific times), and you need to follow the rules laid out on the website to guarantee a slot – otherwise, watch for last-minute cancellations in Twitter.
Is it worth the hassle? We definitely think so – in fact we can wholeheartedly recommend Kobe-trained Toru Takahashi’s very personal take on the high-end artistry of traditional sushi, especially his bespoke £96 omakase menu (nigiri, sashimi, hand rolls, sweet omelette etc).
Otherwise, order judiciously from a line-up of matchless briny-fresh fish, all depending on what the chef decides is good enough for the table: there might be mackerel, razor clams, octopus, scallops and eel among the haul, although the most highly prized stuff is tuna – four different cuts, to be precise (including the ‘very rich part’).
Everything receives exemplary treatment as Toru wields his knife, slicing with surgical precision and applying pin-point embellishments – delicately painting the fish with homemade soy, adding a touch of wasabi root, applying mirin or chilli where necessary, and even polishing the bamboo-leaf ‘plate’.
Toru’s spouse Harumi is the kindest and most courteous of hosts – in fact everything from the exquisitely rendered rice to the premium saké is faultless. It’s just a shame about the palaver of booking a table at this revered sushi specialist.