Compton

Sauntering up to Compton’s sophisticated charcoal-painted entrance, we can’t help but note that the all-day eatery has snagged a rather jammy location. Set back from the busy Clerkenwell Road and overlooking St John’s Square, we plonk ourselves at a table on its alfresco terrace to make the most of its picturesque position. Inside, the view is just as good, boasting a soft pink and green colour scheme, wooden parquet flooring, large leafy plants and a marble topped bar. 

The kitchen is in very capable hands. Executive chef Michael Shaw has served at Michelin-starred Trinity, while head chef Sam Monastyrskyj spent time at Kerridge’s The Hand in Flowers, credentials that are immediately qualified by the dishes that arrive at our table. Things start very well with two soft-centred curried cauliflower croquettes served with onion bhaji mayo. A simple but clever take on bruschetta elevated with Cornish squid transported us to warmer climes, while firm but sweet roasted carrots served with thick labneh and crispy sage leaves again exemplified beauty in simplicity. Further good things included a generous helping of intensely garlicky prawns, and a pork chop served with sauerkraut and an addictive, sticky sauce.  

There were a few drawbacks throughout the evening. Dishes arrived slowly and at odd times, which meant that one of our main dishes had gone cold before the rest of the course had arrived. The dessert we received was not the one we ordered, although this barely registered once we’d tried the perfect chocolatey oblong shape – part torte, part cheesecake – with seasonal cherries and a cherry cream.  

We really like Compton, and it feels like it will become a neighbourhood favourite once it finds its feet a little more. With its founding team as strong as the food we tried, it hasn’t got far to go.  

Compton models itself as the all-day eatery that does it all. Serving breakfast lunch and dinner, the restaurant aims to be the kind of place you could bring a date, but also your in-laws. The menu, crafted by head chef Mike Shaw, showcases honest food focused around sustainability and seasonality. Shaw hails from Edinburgh, having worked at Trinity, The Rutland Hotel and New Zealand’s Zibibbo. As if all this wasn’t enough, Compton is also a deli and coffee shop on weekdays as well.

Breakfast at Compton is a comfortably traditional affair, featuring the likes of fresh artisan pastries, breakfast baps and granola with fruit compote. Heartier options, meanwhile, include breakfast baps, sourdough pancakes and a full English, with or without meat. For something a little spicier, try the shakshuka served with a grilled sesame flatbread.

Later in the day, you’ll find a pleasing selection of cocktails to sip on, including a paloma, negroni and daiquiri. You’ll also see the Hemingway daiquiri, which features the addition of grapefruit juice and marachino liqueur. The wine list is similarly to-the-point, with only three bottles per colour, and a couple of beers and ciders are also available.

The lunch and dinner offering has a relaxed, brasserie-esque feel to it. Starters are a mixture of more familiar options like beef tartar or a Cobble Lane Cured charcuterie board, and more unusual creations. These include BBQ Cornish mussels with dashi broth, lovage and crispy shallots, as well as a seared tuna loin with sesame, kohlrabi and pear. Larger plates offer a flat iron chicken with gremolata butter, king prawns with chilli garlic oil and grilled Cornish day boat fish at market price.

Finish with something along the lines of a Basque-style burnt cheesecake, plate of British and Irish cheeses, boozy affogato or British strawberries with honeycomb and fig leaf oil.