The Colony Grill Room at The Beaumont

The Colony Grill Room first opened its doors in 2014, when it was opened by Jeremy King and Chris Corbin (of Wolseley and Delaunay fame) as the dining room of their Beaumont hotel. The pair have since moved on from their short career as hoteliers but their vision of an ultra-civilised refuge not only from nearby Oxford Street but much of the modern world remains gloriously intact.

Plush red leather booths and fringed lampshades set the tone of retro luxe, while maximalist artworks and pretty murals are a nod to the Grill’s old-time New York identity. On the food front, comfort food with a distinctly American accent is what's on offer.

Our experience began with starters of smoked eel carbonara and white onion soup finished with its own miniature grilled cheese sandwich. The carbonara is a delicate dish with hand-cut strozzapreti coated in a silky-smooth smoked sauce. While the white onion soup is a comforting choice with just enough crunch from the grilled cheese.

Transatlantic dishes with a chic edge are the heroes of the main menu, with oysters and steaks from the grill also featuring. Monkfish Wellington is the dish we didn’t realise was missing from our lives until we ordered it. Meaty firm monkfish is a perfect substitute for traditional beef, giving a lighter but still just as comforting dining experience. Those looking for an authentic taste of the grill might enjoy our choice of tranche of calf’s liver with caramelised onions, cured bacon and capers, this dish packs a serious punch with bursts of salty capers amongst the charred flavour from the liver.

As you would expect, dessert at this American-style setting is filled with sweet treats. We settled on the vanilla cheesecake served with poached rhubarb and stem ginger, a picture-perfect dessert that those with a sweet tooth will enjoy. A cheese course is also available if sickly sweet puddings aren’t for you.

High prices are par for the course at a Mayfair hotel, but The Colony Grill Room’s vintage feel and ultra-charming staff make dining here the most pleasant of experiences. Post-prandial drinks in the hotel’s Le Magritte cocktail bar are a must too, not least for the excellent people watching.

The Colony Grill Room is the flagship restaurant of The Beaumont Hotel in Mayfair, also home to afternoon tea lounge Gatsby’s and cocktail bar and terrace Le Magritte.

The dining room is a smart and sophisticated affair, which calls back to 1920s New York, although in reality the restaurant only opened its doors in 2014. The space is punctuated by cosy red leather booths and art-deco lighting, while in 2021 the dining room underwent a refurbishment which saw the black and white portraits of old Hollywood stars replaced by maximalist artworks and colourful murals depicting detailed natural landscapes.

The kitchen here is headed up by chef Ben Boeynaems, who has previous experience at high-end London restaurants Petrus and The Goring and most recently, The Zetter Group. The menu comprises the transatlantic favourites the restaurant is known for such as shellfish, grills, steaks and tableside salads, all with a large focus on seasonal and locally sourced, quality ingredients.

To kickstart your meal, you might tuck into dishes such as raw Orkney scallop with Waldorf salad and a green apple vinaigrette, before following them up with main courses such as Monkfish Wellington with roast celeriac, braised salsify and hen-of-the-woods, or Scottish Gigha halibut with buttered Dorset crab, saffron gnocchi, fennel and crab bisque. Those looking for something heartier can choose from The Colony Grill Room’s selection of grills, which features
Belted Galloway steak tartare with pickled radishes, fresh horseradish and game chips, and buttermilk fried spring chicken served with new roast chicken emulsion and XO sauce.

To finish up, indulge your childhood fantasies with a build-your-own ice cream sundae or try the signature Bananas Foster. The Colony Grill Room is also open every day for breakfast, where you’ll find the likes of a full English and buttermilk pancakes topped with maple syrup and bacon.