The Colony Grill Room at The Beaumont

It might look like the acme of old-school dining, but The Colony in fact dates from 2014, when it was opened by Jeremy King and Chris Corbin (of Wolseley and Delaunay fame) as the dining room of their Beaumont hotel. The pair have since moved on from their short career as hoteliers but their vision of an ultra-civilised refuge not only from nearby Oxford Street but much of the modern world remains gloriously intact.

Plush red leather booths and fringed lampshades set the tone of retro luxe, while maximalist artworks and pretty murals are a nod to the Grill’s old-time New York identity. On the food front, comfort food with a distinctly American accent is what's on offer. Starters include the likes of a sweet and creamy lobster bisque (topped up with a shot of brandy) and steak tartare which is made tableside, allowing you to tailor the level of spice to your taste.

To follow, 30-day dry aged Aberdeen Angus steaks come in a variety of succulent cuts and vie for attention alongside grilled lobster, shepherd’s pie and buttermilk fried chicken. Sides, meanwhile, include crispy golden French fries and buttery creamed spinach, while you can match your dinner with around 30 wines by the glass from the French-leaning global list. 

Desserts include the ultimate indulgence of a build-your-own sundae, which comes complete with the unrivalled childish glee of ticking off your preferred toppings and sauces on a paper pad.

High prices are par for the course at a Mayfair hotel, but The Colony Grill’s vintage feel and ultra-charming staff make dining here the most pleasant of experiences. Post-prandial drinks in the hotel’s Le Magritte cocktail bar are a must too, not least for the excellent people watching. 

The Colony Grill Room is the flagship restaurant of The Beaumont Hotel in Mayfair, also home to afternoon tea lounge Gatsby’s and cocktail bar and terrace Le Magritte.

The dining room is a smart and sophisticated affair, which calls back to 1920s New York, although in reality the restaurant only opened its doors in 2014. The space is punctuated by cosy red leather booths and art-deco lighting, while in 2021 the dining room underwent a refurbishment which saw the black and white portraits of old Hollywood stars replaced by maximalist artworks and colourful murals depicting detailed natural landscapes.

The kitchen here is headed up by chef Ben Boeynaems, who has previous experience at high-end London restaurants Petrus and The Goring and most recently, The Zetter Group. The menu comprises the transatlantic favourites the restaurant is known for such as shellfish, grills, steaks and tableside salads, all with a large focus on seasonal and locally sourced, quality ingredients.

To kickstart your meal, you might tuck into dishes such as raw Orkney scallop with Waldorf salad and a green apple vinaigrette, before following them up with main courses such as Monkfish Wellington with roast celeriac, braised salsify and hen-of-the-woods, or Scottish Gigha halibut with buttered Dorset crab, saffron gnocchi, fennel and crab bisque. Those looking for something heartier can choose from The Colony Grill Room’s selection of grills, which features
Belted Galloway steak tartare with pickled radishes, fresh horseradish and game chips, and buttermilk fried spring chicken served with new roast chicken emulsion and XO sauce.

To finish up, indulge your childhood fantasies with a build-your-own ice cream sundae or try the signature Bananas Foster. The Colony Grill Room is also open every day for breakfast, where you’ll find the likes of a full English and buttermilk pancakes topped with maple syrup and bacon.