It might look like the acme of old-school dining, but The Colony in fact dates from 2014, when it was opened by Jeremy King and Chris Corbin (of Wolseley and Delaunay fame) as the dining room of their Beaumont hotel. The pair have since moved on from their short career as hoteliers but their vision of an ultra-civilised refuge not only from nearby Oxford Street but much of the modern world remains gloriously intact.
Plush red leather booths and fringed lampshades set the tone of retro luxe, while art deco-style murals and framed photographic portraits are a nod to the Grill’s old-time New York identity. On the food front, comfort food with a distinctly American accent is what's on offer. Starters include the likes of a sweet and creamy lobster bisque (topped up with a shot of brandy) and steak tartare which is made tableside, allowing you to tailor the level of spice to your taste.
To follow, 30-day dry aged Aberdeen Angus steaks come in a variety of succulent cuts and vie for attention alongside grilled lobster, shepherd’s pie and buttermilk fried chicken. Sides, meanwhile, include crispy golden French fries and buttery creamed spinach, while you can match your dinner with around 30 wines by the glass from the French-leaning global list.
Desserts include the ultimate indulgence of a build-your-own sundae, which comes complete with the unrivalled childish glee of ticking off your preferred toppings and sauces on a paper pad.
High prices are par for the course at a Mayfair hotel, but The Colony Grill’s vintage feel and ultra-charming staff make dining here the most pleasant of experiences. Post-prandial drinks in the hotel’s low-lit American Bar are a must too, not least for the excellent people watching.