Portland

It’s all about the food and the flavours at Will Lander’s Portland – a determinedly modern, dressed-down but “elegant” restaurant serving high-end food without an ounce of affectation. Situated not far from the BBC, the low-key dining room is a study in cool stripped-back style – bare dark-wood flooring, bare lightbulbs, bare tables, function-room chairs and watercolour portraits, all overlooked by the Michelin-starred open kitchen.

Headline chef Merlin Labron-Johnson left at the end of 2018, but the kitchen is maintaining its form and there’s “always something different, original and delicious on the menu”, according to one fan. It helps that there’s no needless over-complication along the way – even moreish snacks such as Cornish Gouda and malted barley buns or duck rillettes with pickled daikon and elderberries are prepared with enviable restraint. 

After that, stylish simplicity is the mantra, from clever pairings of confit chicken wings, sweetcorn, lemon thyme and black truffle or duck rillettes with pickled daikon and elderberries to Cornish skate with baby parsnips, mussels and sea herbs or Cotswold venison accompanied by slow-cooked potatoes and trompettes de mort mushrooms.

For afters, what could be more straightforward or seasonally perfect than a quince and bergamot tart with cardamom ice cream or marjoram and white chocolate crémeux, alongside sheep’s yoghurt and russet apple?  

Set lunches offer “fantastic value”, catering for special diets is “hugely appreciated”, and staff always provide “friendly but highly professional service”, while the accessible ‘textbook’ wines on the back of the menu are supported by an elite ‘single bottle list’ of more expensive rarities.

Portland is a Michelin-starred restaurant in Fitzrovia, known for its understated elegance and commitment to modern British cuisine. Since opening in 2015, it has built a reputation for serving meticulously crafted dishes that highlight the best of seasonal ingredients. The dining experience is refined yet relaxed, with a focus on quality produce, thoughtful preparation, and impeccable presentation. The restaurant was co-founded by Will Lander and Dan Morgenthau, and Portland's culinary team is led by Executive Chef Chris Bassett, who has been with the restaurant for several years.

The menu offers both à la carte and tasting options, with dishes that evolve regularly to reflect the seasons. Expect carefully balanced flavours, expert technique, and an appreciation for simplicity that allows ingredients to shine. Past dishes have included delicacies such as brioche-crusted hake, venison Wellington, and inventive vegetable-based plates that cater to vegetarian and vegan preferences. Each dish is composed with precision, ensuring a harmonious blend of textures and tastes.

Wine is an integral part of the experience, with an extensive and well-curated list that features bottles from both renowned and lesser-known producers. A knowledgeable team is always on hand to offer pairings that complement the menu perfectly.

The atmosphere is intimate and welcoming, striking a balance between sophistication and warmth. The interiors are stylish yet understated, with soft lighting, wooden accents, and an open kitchen that adds to the sense of connection between the chefs and diners. The service is attentive without being intrusive, making for an experience that feels special yet effortless.

Currently celebrating its tenth anniversary, Portland continues to be a destination for those seeking outstanding food in a relaxed and elegant setting. It remains a favourite among Londoners and visitors alike, offering a dining experience that is both modern and timeless.