There’s no shortage of excellent pubs in London, from proper old-school boozers to polished gastropubs with high-end menus. The George sits comfortably between the two. Occupying an 18th-century building on Great Portland Street, it retains all the warmth and familiarity of your classic local, but with stellar menus and just enough refinement to make it a dining destination in its own right.
Downstairs, the space is clad in dark wood, with drinkers gathered around pints, and a pub quiz in full swing. We don't know how many players are on a rugby union team, and we're mercifully whisked away before we have to answer. The upstairs dining room is something else entirely, complete with glossy forest-green walls, intricate crown moulding and plush olive banquettes that sit beneath towering sash windows. There’s plenty of historic touches too, from the white-marble fireplace and vintage rugs that give the room a chic living room vibe.
The menu offers no-nonsense pub grub, though there are plenty of elevated touches and a quiet confidence that comes from a kitchen that has nailed the basics. A Scotch egg arrives with a beautifully jammy yolk, flecks of black pudding running through the sausage filling that adds a welcome salinity, the shell impossibly crisp and golden. It's easy to see why this has become a signature.
A prawn toast is a must order, though push any thoughts of deep-fried Chinese fodder from your mind. A charred sourdough base is topped with the sweet shellfish and a kohlrabi slaw, finished with a wafer-thin slice of guanciale and a fresh squeeze of lemon. Mains cover all the classics, and tonight we opt for the pork chop, with beautifully rendered fat and a gentle char. It arrives with a peppercorn sauce that’s bold and buttery, carrying an almost Marmite-like depth of umami.
A meal at The George wouldn’t be complete without its signature Irish coffee, but when it’s 35 degrees in London, only one thing will do - the frozen version. It’s indulgently boozy, a blended concoction that’s packed full of whiskey, coffee liqueur and topped with whipped cream and hefty sprinkle of nutmeg.
Whether you’re settling in for a pint downstairs, or making an evening of it upstairs, The George is exactly what you want from a great London pub, with its welcoming feel and confident cookery.