Pied à Terre

In a city where restaurants vanish as quickly as they appear, it’s easy to overlook a long-standing institution like Pied à Terre. Despite still reigning as the city’s oldest Michelin-starred restaurant, it remains a tad underappreciated against the capital’s relentless conveyor belt of hot new things.

Owner David Moore has managed to ensure this 30-year-old establishment feels in no way obsolete. Yes, the space delivers familiar fine-dining cues: the white tablecloths are meticulously starched and ironed and the room that hums with low volume chatter. And yet, there’s some modern style on show too. Inside, a central skylight pours natural light into the narrow dining room, bouncing off a wall of mirrors, and allowing the space to feel both intimate and expansive. A bold floral mural and plants cascading from the ceiling, bring bursts of colour and a slightly whimsical touch.

An old stager it may be, but Pied à Terre has clearly evolved. Head chef Alberto Cavaliere has the restaurant ploughing a new furrow with intricate, clever, refreshingly playful cooking. We begin with watermelon, masquerading as crudo; whisper-thin slices of fruit that still manage to deliver on that raw, meaty texture. It's gentle, and refreshing, with bursts of drizzled cucumber ponzu, introducing the restaurant’s subtle Japanese influences.

There’s plenty more of that on offer, from an indulgent white chocolate cremeux with lemongrass and ginger foam, to a ceviche layered with daikon radish and crunchy pips of toasted rice. It could feel forced, but it works - gentle east-Asian flavours that seamlessly meld with Alberto’s classic French technique. An Orkney scallop is the standout of the evening, nestled beside a slab of sweet, fatty pork jowl for the perfect contrast, and smothered in a smoky burnt creme fraiche.

Pied à Terre feels more contemporary now, but there’s still room for classic flavours: Cornish cod and caviar in a buttery, smoked eel and Champagne emulsion; and perfectly pink lamb cannon, punched up by smoked blackberries and earthy morels.

Smartly-dressed staff bring a well-rehearsed professionalism that is just as welcome now as it was in 1991, whilst David floats around, setting tables at ease with his friendly manner. Wine pairings are available (and strongly encouraged) with classic and premium options on offer that showcase the site’s extensive collection.

An evening here won’t be cheap, although a reasonably priced lunch offering could soften the blow, but it's clear to see why Pied à Terre has stood the test of time.

Founded in 1991, Pied à Terre in Fitzrovia is the longest standing independent Michelin restaurant in the UK, serving innovative and creative tasting menus.

Pied à Terre is owned and run by David Moore, who previously worked at Le Manoir Quat’Saisons with Raymond Blanc for six years before opening his own restaurant. Head chef Alberto Cavaliere blends modern British cuisine with the use of classical French techniques to create his innovative menus. Ingredients here are uncompromising in their seasonality, ensuring everything is as high-quality as possible.

The dining room itself is decorated in dark colours, from charcoal walls to black leather booth seating, to create a unique and moody feel. The intimate restaurant is a cosy affair, so as to ensure every diner receives the best experience possible.

Guests can choose between lunch and dinner tasting menus, with plant-based equivalents available for both, as well as a shorter set lunch menu. The regular lunch tasting menu is £100 per person, while the dinner tasting menu is £155 per person. Pied à Terre has also launched a shorter three-course lunch menu for £69 per person, perfect for speedy lunches or work meetings. 

The plates are elegant and expertly fuse French and British influences and cuisines. Examples of dishes include Cornish wild turbot with smoked eel, Champagne and N25 Oscietra Caviar, and Anjou pigeon with Lautrec garlic, blackberry and morels. Vegan dishes include the likes of roasted celeriac with salt baked kohlrabi, pistachio, parsley and grapes, or courgette flowers with piquillo peppers and Roscoff onion.

Meanwhile, a word for the wines, of which there are a staggering 800 varieties available and all are sourced from the finest producers. If an 800-strong list is a little too daunting to choose from, you will find expert sommeliers on hand to answer any questions and offer advice when it comes to the perfect pairing with your meal. There is also a wine pairing available with each of the tasting menus or, if preferred, guests are able to opt for the cocktail or alcohol-free flights to accompany their meals.