The Ninth

French, Mediterranean·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of The Ninth

Silver Award

The Ninth may be a Charlotte Street veteran these days, but Jun Tanaka’s exquisite cooking remains as fantastic as ever, and for our money The Ninth is still one of the best restaurants in these parts.

Sultry browns dominate the dining room, from dark wood floors and chestnut tables to a plush, chocolate brown leather banquette, which runs the length of the wall. The Ninth feels chic and refined but still relaxed - Tanaka’s background is very white tablecloth but there are none here, and the walls are an abstract collage of old plaster and exposed brickwork. The service too is just the right balance of attentive and friendly.

We kick things off with an elegant plate of torched mackerel, each dainty mackerel slice adorned with a sliver of kohlrabi and a shard of pickled lemon. It’s simple, but exquisite. Two pasta courses raise the bar even further - Tanaka’s signature dish of pipe rigati pasta with winter truffle and egg yolk is another example of less is more done well, and jet black cuttlefish malloreddus comes with crispy squid and bottarga, delving into multiple layers of saline funkiness.

Two main dishes - roast cod, ‘nduja, panisse and Jerusalem artichoke, and roast duck with radicchio, pear and daikon, were well executed too, though perhaps they don’t quite achieve the heights of the pasta. The cod had a perfect flake, and the duck was a beautiful rose pink, balanced gently amid sweet and bitter notes from the accompaniments. At £35 and £34 respectively, though, they aren’t cheap. Dessert portions are hefty, and another taste of the pain perdu with vanilla ice cream - also a Tanaka signature - reveals that, spoiler alert, it’s still delicious.

We suspect that people often sleep on The Ninth, because there’s always something new and exciting opening nearby. On this evidence, Tanaka will be here for a long time to come - we’ll be back for more pasta and pain perdu.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
French, Mediterranean
Ambience
Cool, Fine dining, Lively, Quiet conversation, Romantic
Other Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Terrace
Special Features
Gluten-free options, Vegetarian options
People
Group dining [8+], Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About

The origin stories of some restaurant’s monikers can be complex affairs, but those who don’t have much time for laboured ‘concepts’ will be happy to know that the premise of The Ninth is pleasingly simple - it’s called such because it is the ninth restaurant that chef Jun Takana has worked in across his more than 20 year career as a chef.

This is Takana’s first solo venture however, but he has some great kitchen experience to draw on, having previously worked under Phil Howard at The Square, The Roux brothers at Le Gavroche and Marco Pierre White at his eponymous restaurant, where Takana was first trained in classical French cuisine. It should come as little surprise then that The Ninth boasts a seasonally changing menu of both classical and contemporary French cuisine, although it is without the pomp and circumstance that you might expect from someone with Takana’s training.

On the menu, you can expect to find starters such as roast partridge with pickled autumn vegetables or flamed mackerel with red meat radish and lemon. Main courses meanwhile feature the likes of Iberico pork with salsa verde, and salt crusted sea bass served alongside bitter leaves. There is also a separate section of fresh pasta dishes including langoustine ravioli with green tomatoes and tarragon. To round off your meal, take your pick from sweet puddings such as pain perdu with a tonka bean ice cream, or take advantage of a pick ‘n’ mix of cheeses.

It is fair to say that dining at The Ninth won’t necessarily come cheap, but those on a budget can visit at lunchtime, when the set lunch menu is priced at £30 for two courses and £35 for three.


FAQs

Does the restaurant have a Michelin star?

Yes, it has one Michelin star.

Helpful? 0

What is the dress code?

There is no official dress code, but for a Michelin starred restaurant it is fairly laidback. Most diners go for a smart-casual vibe.

Helpful? 0
Meet the team
The Ninth

Jun Tanaka

Chef Owner

Jun Tanaka started his culinary career with an apprenticeship at Le Gavroche where he learnt classic French techniques under the guidance of the Roux brothers. He then spent the next few years working across some of the UK's top restaurants under the tutelage of several acclaimed chefs, including The Square with Phil Howard and Chez Nico with Nico Ladenis. In 2003, he took over the role of executive chef at Pearl Restaurant and Bar which went on to receive three AA Rosettes.  Over the years Jun has also spent time hosting his own TV series, Cooking It, and has also published a cookbook, Simple to Sensational, which hit the shelves in 2009. The Ninth is the first solo venture from Jun, a French restaurant in Fitzrovia which received a Michelin star in 2017 and has retained it ever since. 

 


This venue also offers

The Ninth
Private Group Dining

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Event Party Venue

The Ninth

Location

22 Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 2NB

020 3019 0880 020 3019 0880

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon 12:00-14:30
Tue 12:00-14:30
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri 12:00-14:30
Sat 12:00-14:30
Sun Closed
Dinner
Mon 18:00-21:00
Tue 18:00-21:00
Wed 18:00-21:00
Thu 18:00-21:30
Fri 18:00-21:30
Sat 18:00-21:30
Sun Closed

Reviews

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11 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anil V

06 August 2019  
Cheapest wine at a michelin.

Anon

26 July 2019  
Everything about this restaurant is 5 star!

Tina L

09 July 2019  
Food is all for sharing with a variety of meat, fish, vegetarian dishes. Subtle and delicate tastes to satisfy our palates. Chef owner is able to mix western with Asian tastes without overpowering the flavours. Great service and cosy dining areas.

Naomi I

05 April 2019  
Food and wine were brilliant.

Andrew R

21 March 2018  
Loved the prawn dish.

John M

05 May 2017  
Well thought out dishes in sharing style for laid back dining experience but without losing quality.

Anon

04 May 2017  
Great tasting original food.

Deborah T

04 May 2017  
Intimate, a small but astonishing menu, where every dish surprises and delights, so incredibly deserving of its new Michelin Star - chef Tanaka has excelled himself. The first place we take overseas visitors to.

Patrick B

03 October 2016  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
Nine times a week?
A very nice eatery and a skilled and friendly team that gives good service even when it gets busy. The food is inspired, simple and of the highest quality. Lovely fish dishes, great meats and inspired vegetable dishes make for strong showing. The wine list is modern and thoughtful with lots of very reasonable, nice and interesting options. The attention to detail is what wins. The ambiance is contemporary and bit on the cold side, but the lovely staff make up for that. Upstairs and downstairs differ quite a bit with downstairs accounting for the much-mentioned "Manhattan" feel and upstairs being a bit quieter and I would suggest better for business lunches and dinners. It is the kind of place you come away from wishing the entire team much success.

Lynn W

13 May 2016  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
Intimate restaurant on Charlotte Street
Charlotte Street on a Friday night - very busy with lots of people starting their weekend. Once inside, we were seated in the ground floor restaurant which feels relaxed and intimate. It's got a nice looking bar I'd like to try out another time. We started with the pitta (you get one piece) freshly baked with oil and herbs, two crispy oxtail croquettes, and creamy stracciatella di buffala with beetroot and walnuts. We shared these and they all went together well. Main courses of whole roast quail with foie gras and pistachios was very enjoyable with succulent juicy meat but the stuffing had quite a strong flavour of of chicken liver, and the roast rabbit with morels and sweetbreads was terrific, just tender bunny and no bones to negotiate. There's a good selection of vegetable sides with several things that appealed, but we went with Jersey Royals with smoked butter, and chargrilled asparagus with feta and shallots - it's all presented for sharing and made a great dinner. It's good to see all these seasonal items put together so well, there's lots of interesting dishes to choose from and I'd be happy to go back there anytime.
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