SquareMeal Review
Paul's bakery and patisserie is a fixture of Covent Garden's foodie scene, but the upmarket French chain recently expanded its offer to include an all-day bistro. A bright conservatory-style space overlooks St Paul's churchyard, while the bijou dining room is decked out in classical style, with parquet floors, plush velvet chairs and reproduction 19th-century murals. Locals and tourists drop by for breakfasts of fresh pastries or eggs Benedict on toasted Campagne bread, though the menu also stretches to tartines, soupe à l'oignon, salade niçoise and well-sourced cheese and charcuterie platters to go with selections from the short, regional French wine list. Competent renditions of heartier Gallic fare include coq au vin, andouillette and rich confit duck with buttery crushed potatoes, although the real draw is ‘le table des desserts’ with its rows of glistening tartes, pretty pastel macarons and delicate mille-feuilles.