If it wasn't already clear by the name, ISSO (meaning 'prawn in Sinhala) is passionate about prawns. Crazy, you might say. That passion, and a name that quite literally translates to 'Prawn Prawn Crazy', offers a subtle glimpse into the playfulness that entrepreneur Apinash Sivagumaaran hoped to bring to his original Colombo restaurant back in 2016. Today, the prawn restaurant group has five successful sites in Sri Lanka, and now it's made its international debut with a brand-new restaurant in Canary Wharf.
You can find ISSO inside a large, split-level building on Cabot Square. The space is bright and contemporary, with industrial piped ceilings, widely spaced tables and a wraparound glass frontage overlooking the water. We're seated towards the back, between those huge windows and a glass-enclosed kitchen where we watch chefs prepare ISSO's signature prawn dishes. It feels modern and accessible, made for relaxed weekday dinners and group celebrations, and underpinned by friendly and welcoming staff.
The menu hinges around a build-your-own concept where, naturally, prawns are the star of the show. We choose meaty Black Tiger prawns in a rich 'Negombo' coconut sauce flavoured deftly with cumin and coriander, then paired with buttery garlic rice and a toasted coconut sambal. Just as comforting is the classic shredded flatbread dish kottu roti, here flecked with spiced prawns, crisp vegetables and served with a biting tamarind sauce. Prawns get most of the air time, but not everything is crustacean based, with a line-up of bold street eats that includes heat-building devilled paneer flecked with red chilli and finished with a sweet and sour glaze.
There are two desserts worth ordering, and we recommend you get them both. Wattapalam, a popular Sri Lankan staple, sees cardamon-spiced coconut custard sweetened with jaggary and condensed milk, then topped with toasted cashew nuts. If that all sounds a little too sweet, then the delicate, crepe-like pancakes filled with treacle-infused grated coconut are also excellent.
ISSO has a very clear USP, but at its heart is a restaurant built on solid foundations: flavour-packed Sri Lankan food in a setting that remains accessible, unpretentious and fun.