Hide Ground

££££
British

Book a table

Find a table

You won't be charged for this service.

About Hide Ground

SquareMeal Review

Silver Award

The latest venture of wunderkind chef Ollie Dabbous certainly lives up to its name. Despite its vast dimensions, occupying three storeys, Hide is easy to miss thanks to a discreet exterior featuring barely visible signage and a door that blends into the wall. Plenty of folk have already discovered it, mind: just look through the large windows and you’ll see a full complement of foodies, influencers and Mayfair suits tucking in to platefuls of visually arresting dishes – helping to confirm that this is one of 2018’s most talked-about openings.


With its three separate spaces, Hide aims to cater for all – or at least all who can afford it. Below is a cocktail bar overseen by long-time Dabbous collaborator, Oskar Kinberg; Above is the most formal room, where all diners must order the tasting menu. Between them is Ground: a more accessible, slightly more affordable all-day British restaurant. Taking centre stage here is the swirling oak staircase that connects all three floors, with the dining room’s brown colour scheme and oak furnishings providing neutral back-up.


Switched on, friendly staff suggest starting the meal with grazing dishes such as fried quisquilla prawns – so soft and delicate you don’t even have to remove their shells (though we opted to). To follow, both our starters impressed: a zesty, super-sweet crab tartlet given extra freshness by kaffir lime and smooth chunks of avocado; and a creamy burrata successfully paired with ripe apricot. Equally diverting was a main course of barbecued ibérico pork, elevated by slices of peach to produce a challenging yet effective contrast of textures.


After dipping into the colossal wine list (a truly exhaustive selection), move on to desserts: a treat for the eyes as much as the taste buds. Thrill to the likes of raspberry-flecked ice cream served on a bed of hay clouded by dry ice; or deconstructed strawberry millefeuille with pastry shaped like maple leaves.


There’s a palpable sense of occasion that goes along with dining here, and the accompanying feeling of exclusivity might lead some to limit this to a ‘one and done’ experience. That would be a pity, though: Hide needs to be seen to be believed.


Good to know about Hide Ground

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
British
Ambience
Big and bold, Formal, Glamorous, Quiet conversation, Widely spaced tables
Food Occasions
Afternoon eating, Afternoon tea, Breakfast

Location for Hide Ground

85 Piccadilly, London, W1J 7NB

Opening Times of Hide Ground

Mon-Sun 7.30am-11.30pm

Reviews of Hide Ground

Share your thoughts with other diners

Write a review


1 Reviews
Food & Drink:
Service:
Atmosphere:
Value:

Mr. Alex G

Overrated
18 December 2018
Reputation and hype combined often breed excess expectation. At Hide, take a highly talented chef, an alleged £20m investment, a wine joint venture with nearby Hedonism and anticipation levels can quickly become stratospheric. Gain a Michelin star within a year of opening and you’re in a whole different galaxy. Reviewers need to be sceptical by nature, but not since Sexy Fish have I been so underwhelmed by a London venue. There is no doubting Hide’s ambition: three floors, from fine dining at the top to a cocktail bar at the bottom separated by a beautifully carved wooden staircase (which apparently cost a mere £1m) and more staff than covers (200 versus 180) on hand to take care of your every need. This, however, is where the problems begin. Clearly wine is part of the angle here, so no surprise to have a server offer us an iPad with the 4,000-bin list. Yet, does this device offer details on wines by the glass? No; you need a separate list for that. And, what about a beer (as requested by one of my comrades)? No; yet another list. So, before even getting onto the food, our table was covered in different menus and we had had to interact with around half a dozen different staff members just to get a pre-dinner drink. Having staff on hand is better than not having them at all, but when you get asked every three minutes by a different person whether you’ve decided on your food choices, this is not relaxing; it’s not even good service, it’s intrusive and over-bearing. Even if Hide does have to turn tables every two hours, no diner ever wants to feel under pressure. Onto the food, and the story here is style over substance. No doubt, Ollie Dabbous has deserved pedigree, but the menu conception struck us as more about delivering easily Instagram-able dishes at prices pitched for wealthy Mayfair hedge funders and visiting out of towners whose currencies are markedly stronger than the British Pound – the sort of people who don’t mind paying over £40 for, say, a pigeon. Portion sizes also border on the stingy – again perhaps a deliberate nod to many of the actively Instagramming waif-like diners we witnessed. It’s hard to get a starter and a main in the ground floor restaurant for less than £60, so the least you should expect is to be properly fed at this price point. The food we did eat was by no means flawless either, a sentiment shared by all three in our group. While a wonderfully creamy chicken liver parfait paired with an out-of-this-world fig and hibiscus chutney stood out as a marked highlight from our shared starters, my much-discussed pigeon main underwhelmed. It certainly looked beautiful, presented on a bed of festive pine and already sliced, but the whole experience was over in little more than a half-a-dozen mouthfuls – so the equivalent of a mere £7 a bite. Value for money? No. An experience? Yes, and especially the people-watching. Worth repeating? Only if someone else were paying.
Food & Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Other restaurants near Hide Ground

Check availability
Back to restaurant
Complete your booking

You are requesting to book Hide Ground for people on at


Select a special offer

These offers are optional, and there's no commitment.


Error adding booking details, please try later.

First Name is required field
Last Name is required field
Email Address is required field
Phone Number is required field
Diner First Name is required field
Diner Last Name is required field

By clicking 'complete booking' you agree to the SquareMeal User Agreement

Complete booking