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It may have been somewhat overshadowed by the new King’s Cross branch, but this sleek-looking, light-filled eatery from laid-back Aussie chef and adopted Londoner Bill Granger is still everything you might expect. Huge “dramatic” windows, chirpy staff and a quiet location away from Clerkenwell Green ensure this place brings a taste of the glamorous Antipodean lifestyle to EC1 – no wonder it’s hugely popular for catch-ups and all-day meetings. The kitchen deals in big sunny flavours with a heavy splash of South-East Asian colour and lots of “fresh, healthy” notes – perhaps beetroot with labneh, sumac and pomegranate, a sambal chicken salad with green papaya or steamed sea bass with green-tea noodles, samphire and soy mirin broth. Desserts such as white chocolate and pistachio pavlova are to die for, while Granger’s reputation as the ‘egg master of Sydney’ ensures that breakfast doesn’t disappoint.
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