Island

They say no man is an island, so it makes sense that a formidable duo is behind this ambitious concept. Michelin-starred chefs Brad Carter and Tom Brown have collided their respective nose-to-tail ethos and seafood expertise into a slightly mad ‘surf-and-turf’ inspired venture, tucked inside the Chandelier Room of Mare Street Market in King’s Cross.

The interiors are as audacious as the menu: the ceiling is littered with dozens of mismatched chandeliers, spilling warm, multicoloured light across a large, semi-industrial space that’s sprawling with greenery. A luminous half pig, half prawn mutant watches over diners - a Frankensteinian creation that hints at the experimental madness that’s set to come.

We kick things off with oysters - one smothered with molten nacho cheese, the other topped with a lamb doner sausage: fatty, spicy, and glistening in lamb fat. The beef tartare is a fantastic opener; delicately diced and laced with gherkins, it arrives crowned with oyster emulsion in place of the usual yolk. Accompanying prawn crackers have a Skips-for-grown-ups vibe. Its bold, ingenious cooking – a sign of what Carter and Brown can do together, even if the smothering of prawn cocktail powder is a tad heavy-handed.

When Island works, it really works, but not everything lands cleanly. A slab of Tamworth pork is glazed in a sweet, sticky Texas-style barbecue glaze, sliced alongside a crab coleslaw. The indulgence is there but lacks the refinement of some of the other dishes - a mashup that feels more loyal to the concept than the palate.

It’s telling that the highlight of the evening is one of few moments that steer away from the surf-and-turf theme. Monkfish with lobster bearnaise showcases some serious flavour: buttery, luxurious, and dripping in a bone sauce so good that we find ourselves shamelessly mopping it up. The surf-style roasties - there's a turf option too - are equally excellent. Cooked until they’re gloriously crisp and golden, and doused in dried mussel, Tajin and lemon, they make us wonder why we bother with any other version.

It’s a strange move, perhaps, to build a restaurant that alienates a large amount of the population (vegetarians, beware). But Island doesn’t play it safe. It’s a bold, slightly chaotic concept, perhaps one thought up in a moment of madness. Whilst it doesn’t always hit the mark, when it does, there's brilliance, even if it’s completely bonkers.

Michelin-starred chefs Brad Carter and Tom Brown have joined forces for Island, a surf-and-turf-focused restaurant located on the first floor of Clerkenwell pub The George & Dragon. It is a rare collaboration between two Michelin-starred chefs, with Carter coming to prominence on the success of restaurant Carters of Moseley in Birmingham, while Brown is best known for acclaimed London restaurants including Cornerstone, Pearly Queen and Tom Brown at The Capital.

Island first began as a residency at Mare Street Market King's Cross, before graduating to its first permanent site in Clerkenwell. Named after the pair's shared experiences cooking on islands around the world, Island combines Carter's nose-to-tail philosophy with Brown's expertise in sustainably sourced seafood. Drawing inspiration from Seattle's surf-and-turf culture, the 60-cover restaurant celebrates the best produce from across the British Isles, with day-boat fish and rare-breed meats taking centre stage.

The menu begins with oysters topped with inventive garnishes such as a 'jungle mignonette', alongside snacks including lamb belly and clam skewers and steak tartare served with prawn crackers. Larger plates continue the kitchen's bold, globally influenced approach, with dishes such as the Island mixed grill and piri piri chicken with crab sauce. Groups can opt for a sharing board loaded with steaks, chops and fish, while Sundays bring generous roasts including Tamworth porchetta with burnt apple sauce and beef rump and cheek with horseradish.

Desserts lean towards nostalgic comfort food, featuring fried rhubarb pie with tonka bean custard, Banoffee Alaska and Solero soft serve. The drinks list follows suit with playful cocktails such as the Nan's Trifle Fix and Apple Crumble, alongside an extensive wine selection available by the glass or bottle.

With two Michelin-starred chefs at the helm, Island delivers inventive, produce-led cooking in the heart of Clerkenwell.