Let’s start at the very beginning, with the name. Gezellig is a Dutch word that means ‘an atmosphere which allows good times to happen’, and we’re pleased to report that this new Holborn destination lives up to its promise.
Gezellig is an independent light in the dark of chain restaurants on High Holborn. Thoughtfully and sensitively refurbished, the former Holborn Town Hall building retains plenty of its original features, while a two-tone green colour-scheme brings things nicely up to date. A mezzanine bar suspended over the dining room prevents the double height space feeling cavernous, while there are cordoned-off spaces for private dining.
Led by a talented foursome of Michelin restaurant veterans – chef Graham Long, front of house James Comyn, restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas and sommelier Wieteke Teppema – Gezellig has all the clout of its fine-dining counterparts without any of the pomp. The staff are enthusiastic, friendly and genuinely excited to share their menu recommendations, while the atmosphere is cosy and convivial. It feels like something everyone has a stake in, a real labour of love.
The menu is a carefully balanced mix of modern European cooking, with a heavy slant towards seafood. Plates are beautifully presented, but not to the detriment of flavour, with each dish carefully balanced in taste, texture and colour.
Bright and fresh starters include a standout cured sea trout. Rich and firm fish is topped with both charred and sweet and sour pickled cucumber to cut through any fattiness, while a fried oyster brings shellfish umami and a good crunch.
Mains include slow-roast chicken breast with Morteau sausage farci and hispi cabbage, and roast cod loin with crisp polenta, sweetcorn and crevettes. Just as much thought has gone into a dedicated vegetarian menu featuring the likes of roasted carrots with cumin hummus, grelot onions and carrot oil.
Desserts are real crowd pleasers – the black forest brownie is damp and dark with cocoa and sharp cherries, while a hazelnut ice cream with praline and Frangelico is a nice boozy alternative to your typical affogato. And if you’re not feeling up to three courses, the kitchen’s playful take on ‘builder’s tea and a biscuit’ will give you a sweet finish without adding too much to your fullness levels.
Drinks are as much of an attraction as the food. You can sit up at the main bar space in the restaurant, or tuck yourself into a wing armchair on the mezzanine while ordering snacks and drinks straight to your chosen spot all night long. Classic cocktails like Manhattans and Bloody Marys sit alongside expertly chosen wines, and there are a couple of beers too. Softs, meanwhile, include homemade lemonade, ice tea and Virgin Marys.
While the seasons change, so will the menu at Gezellig, but we feel confident that whatever the team here decide to do with their chosen ingredients the results will surprise and delight.