Sycamore Covent Garden

Sprawling glass frontage and sliding doors hint at the luxury of the Middle Eight hotel before you’ve even stepped off the streets of Covent Garden. Inside, the feeling continues. A curved bar anchors the room, complete with back-lit shelves stocked with Magnums and doubles of Champagne, whilst overhead the double-height ceilings are draped with an installation of gilded sycamore leaves that lend the entrance an unexpectedly theatrical flourish.

The bar itself provides a darker, more atmospheric backdrop, but we push on through to the dining room, where the ceiling drops, the light softens, and the evening transforms into something cosier. Rich teal and turquoise hexagonal tiles wrap around columns, adding a jolt of colour to the otherwise muted palette. An open kitchen hums gently in the background, a pizza oven flickering away, and smooth jazz drifting over a well-heeled, corporate crowd.

We sink into a booth at our marble-topped table, a Sycamore Club cocktail in hand - tart and fruity, all gin, lemon and fresh raspberries - and things are off to a promising start. Arancini arrive stuffed with chunky mushroom, their exterior delicately crisp and served with a gentle truffle mayonnaise that rounds things out nicely. Smoked duck carpaccio follows, its whisper-thin slices scattered with fennel, orange chunks and chopped hazelnuts. The duck plays it a little too quiet, the fennel promising more punch than it delivers, though the orange brings welcome bursts of brightness.

Pasta delivers the evening’s most satisfying moment. Veal ragu tagliatelle arrives cheesy and deeply flavoured, the sweetness of the veal running through a rich sauce that clings to every strand. Pan-seared sea bass holds its own too, its skin crisp and salt-and-pepper crusted, the delicate flesh flaking at the slightest touch over a silky pea veloute.

We finish with a classic tiramisu. It's generous on the mascarpone, though we’d have loved more coffee-soaked ladyfingers to balance the cream. Still, Sycamore is dependable, and refreshingly affordable next to its West End neighbours. Pull up a stool at the bar for drinks and snacks, and whatever you do, don't leave without ordering the ragu.

Part of the luxury Middle Eight hotel in Covent Garden, Sycamore is an all-day restaurant which champions the cuisine of Italy. Menus here feature a vast array of Italian staples, ranging from small plates and cicchetti to handmade pizzas, pit-grilled meats and hand-rolled pastas. 

Inside, the expansive dining room is colourful and beachy, showing off a mixture of coastal blue and mustard yellow tones, plus a partially open kitchen behind marble splashed counters and columns wrapped in gleaming blue tiles.

The menu kicks off at breakfast time, where healthy dishes are the order of the day. Start the day off on the right foot with one of the house smoothies or fresh fruit juices, before tucking into granola with yoghurt, or seasonal fruit. From the hot counter, guests can opt for omelettes with your choice of filling, smashed avocado on sourdough toast, or the signature Sycamore Toast with chantilly cream, pistachio, mixed berries and maple syrup.

The lunch and dinner menus are more expansive, with a range of Mediterranean dishes spread across an a la carte, which is split up into antipasti, primi, secondi and dolce. Starting snacks include mushroom and truffle arancini, tomato bruschetta, and smoked duck carpaccio, followed by fresh pasta dishes such as slow-cooked beef and caramelised onion pappardelle, or black truffle and ricotta ravioli with butter and sage.

Main courses to choose from include pan-seared sea bass with sauteed mushrooms and pea veloute, mushroom risotto with a red wine reduction, or pork Milanese with sage butter and parmesan. Guests can also choose from a selection of sides to perfectly complement the meal. A selection of pizzas is also on offer, with options such as spicy salami, and courgette and ricotta.

End your feast on a sweet note with your pick of desserts, from the signature Sycamore tiramisu to a molten chocolate and raspberry fondant with vanilla ice cream.