The Betsy Smith morphed into Bokor in autumn 2016, when all traces of the former English-whimsy furnishings were swept away. The new name is shared with a Haitian voodoo sorcerer, hence a mission statement that promises ‘good food and evil spirits’. Whichever sorcerer conjured up Bokor’s busy decor was prone to skittishness, chucking a dark-wood Edwardian back bar, Aegean taverna, Italian café and 1950s Polynesian tiki lounge into the jolly mix. The all-day menu is similarly catholic, with a Med bias, listing full English and fish & chips alongside duck breast with dauphinois, and various pizza toppings. The aforementioned evil spirits appear in a long moderately priced cocktail list whose standouts include an Old Fashioned made with Glenlivet whisky, honey, rosemary and ginger; Pompeii (a Beefeater gin Sour with pomegranate, grape and peach juices); and Rhubarb and Custard (served hot). Serviceable Spanish house wine kicks off a fairly priced list.