Boringdon Hall has been an address of note for half a millennium, boasting a storied history that reaches back to the Domesday Book and counts Henry VIII as a former owner. 500 years later, the magnificent mansion remains highly regarded for its Michelin-starred restaurant Acleaf - a spot we think old Henry would have thoroughly enjoyed.
Walking into Boringdon’s enormous, double-height Great Hall, we’re greeted by portraits of past owners and a massive royal seal hanging proudly over the fireplace. It makes an atmospheric setting for an aperitif before the kindly staff usher you upstairs.
The restaurant itself is a different beast. Set in a romantic minstrels gallery overlooking the stone hall below, Acleaf is sleek and modern, dressed for special occasions in starched tablecloths and neutral colours. As the sun sets, the moody lighting transforms this elegant space into an unforgettable spot for anniversaries.
Acleaf comes out firing with excellent snacks: pleasingly spherical black pudding beignets dressed in gold leaf, gauzy slices of Iberico ham, and two separate bread courses - salted butter on a fresh baguette for the purists, and an extraordinary butter topped with dried wildflower and rose petal honey, slathered over a deep-brown, malted bun. Along with this salvo comes a mysterious personality quiz featuring different shapes carved into a small wooden board; choose the ones that speak to you most, and the team quietly whisks the board away for later.
Classy cooking keeps us distracted for the rest of the meal. There’s a beautiful tartare of raw scallop, neatly dressed in caviar pearls and circled with a moat of walnut dashi beurre blanc; a giant langoustine - perfectly cooked - alongside a foamy esplette pepper sauce and lemon gel; then a single, dainty pea and ricotta ravioli. The vibe is classic fine dining - everything arrives on big, white ceramic, and there’s gold leaf everywhere. It all builds to the apex of Highland Wagyu, with celeriac puree and a magnificent truffled beef jus. The beef is stunning - glossy, marbled, and tender, a demonstration of why well-executed classics will never go out of style.
The personality test results (we won’t spoil the fun) re-appear later alongside a number of desserts that show off serious pastry chops. All in all, a few minor pacing issues and a slightly underpowered squab dish do little to detract from what is a genuinely spectacular experience. Acleaf manages to honor its grand surroundings while carving out a modern identity that is entirely its own. For world-class cooking in the West Country, this is far and away the best you will find for some distance.