Following the arrival of a talented new chef/owner in 2015, this stone-built Cornish inn has enjoyed something of a renaissance on all fronts. The stone-floored bar still does a good trade with local drinkers, but most attention is now on the skilful but unfussy food served in three nautically themed dining areas. Menus follow the seasons: in springtime that might mean a salad of young vegetables, herbs, Pecorino and lemon oil followed by loin of lamb with fine beans, fennel and slow-roasted tomatoes; in winter, a melange of squash, feta, mushrooms and rocket could give way to Norfolk quail cooked in Malbec or ale-battered gurnard with home-cut chips. Desserts also run with the calendar, from vanilla pannacotta with raspberries to walnut and honey tart with pouring cream. Draughts of Padstow-brewed St Tudy Ale go down well, or you could pick from the serviceable wine list.
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