SquareMeal Review of
Opened in 2004, this modern-day Tapei teahouse is “still going strong” and still feels “very cool” with its atmospheric lighting, lively vibe and refined touches such as the tea and patisserie bar out front. Yauatcha’s trademark blue-glass frontage gives way to a frenetic grey-toned dining room, while a neon-hued bar, elongated fish tanks and candlelit tables await in the brick-lined basement. The comprehensive menu is populated by luxe Chinese standards such as truffled pork belly ribs, crispy fried lobster rolls and stir-fried Penang kwetio noodles dotted with plump scallops, although readers single out the spinach balls with prawns and cuttlefish in black bean sauce and the fiery Szechuan-style pork wontons with peanut. Set menus provide an accessible sampler, while the equally exhaustive dessert list includes no fewer than 15 different chocolates. Those after liquid entertainment will find all beers, classy wines, sakés and killer cocktails grouped into categories such as ‘exceptional’ and ‘discovery’. Yauatcha isn’t cheap, and we agree with gripes concerning leg room beneath the squat basement tables, but this Michelin-starred package is still a winner.