Cheeky slogans aren't a given at a five-star hotel. ‘Steak your claim.’ ‘Get ready to meat us.’ Then again, Broadwick Soho was never going to play it straight. Founder Noel Hayden grew up in his family's Bournemouth hotel, assisting his father, a magician and natural showman – the inspiration behind Beefbar at Dear Jackie’s kitsch, magic-themed branding. Even the name references the love letters his father wrote his mother, each beginning ‘Dear Jackie’.
Martin Brudnizki's interiors are a fortunate holdover from the room's Italian-restaurant days: red silk and velvet, hand-painted plates climbing the walls, Murano glass and majolica tables glowing under low cabaret lighting. The basement has a speakeasy quality; the ground-floor bar, with tables out front, is lighter and more whimsical. Beefbar’s eccentricities fit right in.
Bad boy buns arrive beneath a smoke-filled cloche, lifted with a flourish to reveal Beefbar’s curly insignia branded onto each fluffy bao, stuffed with peppery Szechuan chicken fried in Wagyu fat. Rock corn, meanwhile, offers popcorn-sized sweetcorn fritters in craggy tempura with spicy mayo – salty, sweet and dangerously snackable.
Steak is the main act. Splash out on Matsusaka, Kobe or Hida from the Beefbar reserve, or do as we did: Black Angus ribeye, blushing medium rare, with beautiful marbling, a dark, crisp bark and silky pomme puree primed for dunking. Fries come buried under a snowfall of Parmesan and fresh black truffle, but don’t skip the comforting Wagyu and veal Bolognese: glossy, slow-cooked ragu clinging to thick ribbons of fresh pasta.
Drinks keep pace. The smokey signature Mezcalita – tangy pineapple, herbal Chartreuse and a rosemary edge – is a winner every night of the week. A lengthy wine list can handle whichever cut you land on; our silky Valpolicella brought ripe black cherry, chocolate and smooth tannins.
To finish, magic fingers. Essentially the turbocharged lovechild of Dubai chocolate and a KitKat, it arrives as a hefty three-fingered block, featuring crunchy kadaif, roasted pistachio and a seam of caramel, all tucked behind thick walls of 40% milk chocolate. Ceremoniously chopped tableside with an enormous meat cleaver, it's very on brand.
Steak is the focus, showbiz the theme. Beefbar at Dear Jackie doesn't come cheap, but as Soho shows go, this one's worth the ticket.