Perfectly poised in the heart of London’s busiest neighbourhood, Broadwick Soho is not afraid to stand out. With its flamboyant, ever-changing decor, and leopard-print suited doormen stationed at the glossy pink entrance, this is a hotel that revels in its own theatricality.
From the moment we're ushered inside, past the buzzy and equally maximalist Bar Jackie, and down the winding neon-lit staircase, it’s clear that Dear Jackie is not your average hotel restaurant. Instead, you’ll find a kind of ‘la dolce vita’ fever dream that feels like one of the capital’s best kept secrets.
Murano glass lighting, Sicilian ceramic-tiled tables, and red silk walls dotted with hand-painted plates fill the space - a new eye-catching detail at every angle. Moody lighting is so dim you’ll need the dinky table lamps just to read the menu, but that’s all part of the charm. Dear Jackie feels like pure escapism, a subterranean spot that’ll have you entirely detached from the outside world for a couple of hours.
Guests can expect a sophisticated Italian menu, befitting of the sleek surroundings. But whilst the room dazzles, the food sometimes struggles to hit the same highs. We kick things off with a scallop; skilfully seared and swimming in a creamy, Champagne sauce. It’s technically excellent, with vibrant pops of finger lime and trout roe that have us scraping the plate clean. Elsewhere, a crab remoulade is light and summery, though it cries out for a hit of citrus to balance the sweet datterini tomatoes, and fragrant shredded basil.
Mains take risks, boasting bold flavours that are individually excellent, but occasionally lack cohesion. A duck breast is perfectly cooked - all pink centres and crispy skin - but the bitter puntarelle and sharp blood orange segments fight for dominance, leaving the dish feeling slightly disjointed. At close to £40, it’s a hard one to forgive. Redemption, however, comes in the form of rosemary potatoes: smashed, crisp, and indulgently salty, it’s the kind of side that you instantly regret offering to share.
Dessert brings us back on board - a ricotta and olive oil cake is feather-light and sings when paired with a quenelle of tart creme fraiche, slices of poached rhubarb and a dusting of brown sugar. There’s a lot to love about Dear Jackie, with its attentive service, extravagant decor and relaxed atmosphere. Prices may be steep, but an early booking for the set menu might soften the blow.