SquareMeal Review of
Upstairs at Trinity
Launched as part of Trinity’s new look, Upstairs is altogether more casual than the smart restaurant below. Tall sharing tables, comfortable stools, buzzy background music and an open kitchen make a relaxed setting for a daily changing small-plates menu that showcases chef Adam Byatt’s mastery of complex flavours and textures. Classic vitello tonnato is sprinkled with nuggets of crackling; freshly barbecued squid is pointed up with vibrant gremolata and zesty green-chilli mayo; pink slivers of duck breast contrast with the dark sweetness of warm dates, topped by crunchy toasted buckwheat. Byatt’s attention to detail transforms even simple dishes into superstars: crispy zucchini fritti arrive with a delicious dollop of creamed pecorino; waxy Cornish new potatoes are given a Japanese makeover with velvety seaweed butter. To finish, soft salted caramel ice cream is superb; characterful wines on tap are another highlight. Add amiable service for a package that’s hard to resist.