SquareMeal Review of
Tom Aikens CLOSED
In a nod to prevailing food fashion, Tom Aikens's reinvented flagship has snubbed French luxe for new Nordic minimalism. The furnishings are bare wood, the walls are draped in foodie quotations,
and staff are dressed like helpers from some expensive farm shop. On the plate, though, Aikens's love of complexity doesn't always lend itself to a clean-cut, ingredients-led style: subtle new
season's lamb, for example, is lost among a melange of chorizo, spiced cauliflower, almonds, coriander and raw onion in a potent consommé. When clean and complex do gel, however, the results are
stunning – witness sublime jasmine-cured salmon with viola flowers, pickled apple and jasmine oil or an inspired combination of homemade ricotta, green olive juice, honey jelly and powdered
pine-nut oil. Overall, there's much to like about this new incarnation – not least the greatly reduced prices, the little hessian sacks of stunning home-baked breads, and the OXO tins filled with
quirky petits fours. ‘Charming, extremely knowledgeable' staff seal the deal.