SquareMeal Review of
Long associated with London brewing, Young’s has now opened its first ever dedicated wine bar – in the vestry of a former church adjacent to its Fox & Anchor pub. Decor is classic, cosy Anglo-French bar à vins. Around 40 by-the-glass options are kept fresh by The Vestry’s Coravin system, including accessibly priced, velvety Chilean Merlot; creamy Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc from California’s Napa Valley; and a perky pink Italian Pinot Grigio. The alternatives are bottled craft beers, and cocktails on an unprepossessing London Underground theme. ‘Bakerloo Classic’ (a Hibiki Harmony Japanese whisky and Cointreau Old Fashioned) is just the ticket, but costs £13. To eat, order from a menu of small plates: faggot croquettes with HP sauce (£6); Dorset crab and ’nduja mac'n'cheese; or Aylesbury duck livers on toast, followed by desserts such as Bakewell tart with Scottish raspberries. A useful bolt-on to the Victorian boozer next door.