SquareMeal Review of
From the same stable as Kent-based Hengist & Thackeray’s (see reviews), this establishment may boast a trad village-pub-on-a-green setting, but its elevated modern British cooking conveys
restaurant status. Ex-Box Tree chef Neal Heyworth doesn’t put a foot wrong with execution that is assured & unpretentious. His menu offers a smattering of global tastes – fine pan-fried salmon
with a beetroot & rosemary risotto & roast chicken jus, for example, or crispy confit duck with baked figs & aged balsamic – but generally flavours are modern British, along the lines
of pan-fried chicken with truffle mash, roasted shallots & thyme jus, & there are always classics like beer battered cod & chips. Desserts really come into their own with the likes of
an outstanding sticky toffee pud that has an almost fruity & gingery scent & is teamed with a silky nutmeg ice-cream. While the reception area still bears some of the building’s period
hallmarks, the dining area has been given a thoroughly modern makeover. Occasional jazz evenings.