The Plough

The Hill, Winchmore Hill , Unknown, HP7 0PA

The Plough

SquareMeal Review of The Plough

From the same stable as Kent-based Hengist & Thackeray’s (see reviews), this establishment may boast a trad village-pub-on-a-green setting, but its elevated modern British cooking conveys restaurant status. Ex-Box Tree chef Neal Heyworth doesn’t put a foot wrong with execution that is assured & unpretentious. His menu offers a smattering of global tastes – fine pan-fried salmon with a beetroot & rosemary risotto & roast chicken jus, for example, or crispy confit duck with baked figs & aged balsamic – but generally flavours are modern British, along the lines of pan-fried chicken with truffle mash, roasted shallots & thyme jus, & there are always classics like beer battered cod & chips. Desserts really come into their own with the likes of an outstanding sticky toffee pud that has an almost fruity & gingery scent & is teamed with a silky nutmeg ice-cream. While the reception area still bears some of the building’s period hallmarks, the dining area has been given a thoroughly modern makeover. Occasional jazz evenings.

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