SquareMeal Review of
The Painted Heron
It may not be as cool as Dishoom or as slick as Gymkhana, but The Painted Heron was once a trailblazing modern Indian, and the fact that it still attracts crowds 15 years on is testament to the quality of its food. Your multi-course meal might bring forth a decades-old retrospective of questionable crockery, but who cares when what’s on the mismatched plates is this good? Unusually for an Indian restaurant, there’s a strong focus on seasonal British ingredients, so you may find asparagus, strawberries and even rhubarb in your curry. Fancy a tikka to start? Take your pick from Gressingham duck or pollack. Visiting during the game season? Tuck into partridge with yellow split peas. In the mood for some fish? Try chilli-crusted black cod with onion jam, lentil dumpling and yoghurt. After that, you can chill out with a Cuban cigar on the refurbished terrace. Note the online delivery service too.