SquareMeal Review of
The Kingham Plough
Set up by chef Emily Watkins and her husband in 2007, this rambling old Cotswold hostelry attracts an affluent country crowd with its good-looking interiors, fine food and equally fine booze. The bar offers local ales and comfort-zone snacks in a bucolic setting of beams, exposed stone and open fires, but the main action is in the laid-back, rustic-chic dining room. Emily’s kitchen sends out a clear message about local sourcing – think chilled cucumber and lovage soup with Windrush goats’ cheese and celery-seed loaf or Cotswold spring lamb (loin, steamed pudding and confit breast) with young carrots and broad beans. However, this is landlocked Oxfordshire, so fish comes up from Cornwall – perhaps charred and crispy squid with courgettes and saffron or wild sea trout with a home-smoked trout ‘Scotch egg’, pickled cucumber, samphire and pink fir apple potatoes. For afters, don’t miss the superb British regional cheeses or desserts such as strawberry soufflé with clotted-cream custard. And there’s no need to go home either: six exquisite, contemporary bedrooms are kitted out in style.