The Greenhouse

27a Hay's Mews , London, W1J 5NY

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020 7499 3331

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The Greenhouse may 2015 14
The Greenhouse
The Greenhouse
The Greenhouse
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The Greenhouse
The Greenhouse
The Greenhouse
The Greenhouse
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The Greenhouse
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The Greenhouse may 2015 1
The Greenhouse may 2015 34

SquareMeal Review of The Greenhouse

22

"VERY GOOD"

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It has sported two Michelin Stars since 2004, so expectations invariably run high at The Greenhouse. However, the arrival of new head chef Alex Dilling (ex-Hélène Darroze at The Connaught) has taken the set-up to a different level. Of course, some things never change: the sense of Zen-like calm as visitors arrive at this Mayfair “oasis” via a beautifully landscaped garden; the spacious and light dining room, and the highly professional attitude of the staff. What felt notably different, though, was the buzz – it was encouraging to see almost every table occupied on a midweek evening.

  

Dilling’s culinary approach involves sourcing the very best ingredients, combining them with an innovative flourish and presenting them beautifully. A super-soft yet deeply flavoursome smoked sturgeon mousse with crab and dill set the tone, and there were several high points to follow: we were bowled over by a breath-takingly original truffled egg concoction and a plate of Brittany turbot with boudin noir, girolles and young sorrel.


The vegetarian options also impressed, as did the wine pairings, drawn from one of London’s more voluminous lists (clocking in at 3,400+ bottles). On the downside, our A5 Gunma Wagyu beef was rather bland, and impatient diners may be troubled by the relatively long waits between courses. Still, The Greenhouse remains a bastion of serious fine dining – just be prepared to fork out handsomely.  

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The Greenhouse Location

27a Hay's Mews , London W1J 5NY

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020 7499 3331

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Opening times

Mon-Fri 12N-2.30pm Mon-Sat 6.30-11pm

Private Dining

The Greenhouse may 2015 3
The Greenhouse may 2015 13
The Greenhouse
The Greenhouse

A supreme gastronomic experience is always guaranteed at The Greenhouse, and that package includes the styling of the lunch or dinner as well as the service, which is confident, unobtrusive and geared to a mainly corporate clientele. The pinnacle of this experience is to be found in the exuberant, glass-walled private room which has been designed by Virgile & Stone and seats up to 12 people around a circular table. Bespoke menus by masterful chef Arnaud Bignon.

Private Dining Room Capacity: 12

The Greenhouse's Reviews

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Food & Drink: 8.2

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Service: 7.8

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Atmosphere: 7.7

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Value: 6.9

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Food + drink: 4

Service: 5

Atmosphere: 5

Value: 4

06 April 2018

We really loved the look of Restaurant online and the oasis did not disappoint. Staff was very attentive and showed interest in our enjoyment of chefs food. Bread and amuse bouche fabulous We really liked some ot the 6 tasting menu courses, some less so,but that was down to preference not lack of excellent cooking. Seabass with avocado and coffee . I didn’t appreciate that flavour combination but my husband really liked it. We really enjoyed the lamb with artichoke course,Crab with cauliflower mousse was superb , also sweetbread was rather delicious. Loved coconut lychee dessert.

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Food + drink: 5

Service: 5

Atmosphere: 5

Value: 5

Bronze Reviewer
05 February 2017

Took a client here for lunch and whilst it wasn't humming, the service, the food and the overall ambience were exceptional. I will definitely be back. Great for clients and social.

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Food + drink: 2

Service: 1

Atmosphere: 1

Value: 2

Platinum Reviewer
01 September 2016

Just over a year ago we raved about this restaurant, put it in our Top 20 and determined to return. What a disappointment our second visit turned out to be! The restaurant was full, but with the number of staff this should not have resulted in the almost frantic impression they gave as they rushed to and fro hardly ever looking for the signs from the diners and the state of the tables that mean something is required. There was just one exception to this, we believe his name was Nick, the sole front of house person it was possible to engage with. The sommelier took our wine order but, apparently because we didn’t go for one or more of the decent wines on the list at indecent prices, he abandoned us in favour of diners who ordered wines that needed decanting, even simply walking past as I poured a glass. Another example of staff doing things by rote rather than was the girl who assigned to pour our wine who kept wanting to move our Spanish white from the ice bucket to the table in a dining room that was certainly too warm for that. Then there was the noise level. No muzak was disturbing the ambience, but, unlike in Le Gavroche a couple of evenings earlier, it didn’t require loud music to make it obligatory for most of the other diners to have to shout at each other to make themselves heard, they just did it anyway and we felt quite battered by the time we left. Then there was the dress code; in our booking confirmation it states quite clearly that the restaurant “upholds a formal dress code at all times.” You wouldn’t have guessed it from the way the majority of the guests were attired and still allowed to enter the dining room, and we wondered whether this might have contributed to the Towie-like atmosphere. Then there was the food; it simply was not up to the standard achieved on our previous visit, and the à la carte dishes were insubstantial and not very good value for money. There were three canapés, a wasabi tartlet with celeriac, marinated arctic chard, and veal cubes arranged on a bric leaf, all of which were strikingly neutral. The amuse-bouche was a concoction of melon with a mozzarella mousse which was not to our taste. We had chosen fish from the menu, so it was quite appropriate to receive chef’s signature dish of picked Dorset crab topped with cauliflower purée and mint jelly and accompanied by a green apple espuma but not noticeably with the spices which last time had brought all the tastes successfully together. Our lobster dish was very pretty, the tail meat bathing in a lobster consommé, decorated with peanuts and peanut butter, pointless raspberry and charred bread shards; it tasted nice enough but deserved to be in a small plates service rather than a £95 three-course offer. The water-bathed turbot with seaweed butter, samphire and spinach smear was not the best we’ve ever had and again rather sparse on the plate. A lime panna cotta with mojito crisp and mojito sauce was fine, and we ended with a half cup of fresh mint tea each at £5 a throw. We looked at the photos of the dishes we were served last time, and this rather confirmed our feelings about the two meals. For us the total restaurant experience at The Greenhouse was simply not worthy of its high ranking in the major guides and it is no longer in our Top 20.

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