SquareMeal Review of
The Gay Hussar
Even policy wonks and modern-day Machiavellis have to eat, and hungry lefties have a home-from-home in the Gay Hussar, whose long, narrow, panelled dining room is hung with the Martin Rowson
caricatures to prove it. New Labour may be dead, but old Soho lives on here, in hefty portions of Hungarian dumplings, goulash and schnitzel. Chilled wild-cherry soup adds a touch of refinement
to the ‘reassuringly expensive’ menu, with goose and pork pâté or smoked Hungarian sausage for stouter appetites. To follow, smoked goose breast with red cabbage and sólet (a variant of
cassoulet) is good and straightforward, while stuffed cabbage or fish dumplings are doughy platefuls – and that’s before you’ve added sides or contemplated strudel or dobos torta. Hungarian
wines, such as medium-dry Tokaji Muscat Blanc, are well worth trying.