Michael Caines at The Stafford London

Classical French grounding, a deep respect for terroir, and firm foundations in the South West all make Michael Caines one of the UK’s most respected chefs. Years under Raymond Blanc and Joël Robuchon instilled a finesse for detail, while two decades at Gidleigh Park sharpened his precise, ingredient-led style. No unnecessary theatrics, just a steady rhythm that marks a chef entirely at home with his materials.

Until summer of 2025, that workmanship had been the preserve of Devon’s Lympstone Manor alone. Now, alongside head chef Simon Ulph, Caines is breaking London, setting up shop within The Stafford.

As befits the prestigious St James’s address, we begin in the lounge, surrounded by sunflower arrangements and an eclectic mix of contemporary art. A glass of Louis Roederer follows, along with a few snacks; one taramasalata tartlet and a dinky gougere filled with melting, truffly cheese.

In the dining room proper, Michael Caines’ tasting menu kicks off with bulbous Parker House rolls. Soft, yielding, and enriched to the extreme, it’s everything you want from bread: hot, moreish, crisp-shelled with a buttery soft interior. Next comes scallop ceviche: sweet, tender slivers of scallop resting amidst a bitter-sour honey-soy vinaigrette, elevated by a touch of creamy avocado.

Elsewhere, duck terrine arrives with clever spheres of zippy pickled apple, while pan-roasted Brixham turbot lands supple and meaty, accompanied by a deft shellfish chowder, Oscietra caviar, and a whisper of Lympstone Manor cuvee. A hunk of Hereford beef, matched with a slick technical sauce, is impressive. Layered with beefiness, it’s proof that ingredients, sourcing, and flavour are the driving forces behind Michael Caines at The Stafford.

An apple pre-dessert underscores the approach; bright green apple sorbet, mellowed by comforting vanilla foam, supported with a layer of apple jelly - all carefully calibrated to deliver mouthfuls of late summer freshness.

After just two weeks in operation, naturally, there are stumbles: a duck jelly has set too firm, and a cube of braised beef cheek isn’t quite right in texture. That said, the scaffolding for a fine new piece is already in place. Caines and Ulph are busy at the workbench, signature polish will follow.

Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines has taken over the kitchen at The Stafford London hotel, marking his first residency in the capital. One of the UK's most recognisable and decorated chefs, Caines currently holds a Michelin star at Lympstone Manor, a five-star luxury hotel in Devon, and previously held two stars at Gidleigh Park in Dartmoor.

The Stafford hotel sits in the heart of St James's, known for its five-star, luxury accommodation, proximity to iconic London landmarks, and quintessentially British charm. The main restaurant is traditional, timeless and elegant, offering an all-day dining experience with breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner.

Caines runs the food offering at The Stafford - previously The Game Bird, which opened almost ten years ago. With him, he brings his signature modern European cuisine, including dishes from his time at Lympstone Manor, as well as new, exclusive creations using seasonal British produce.

Alongside executive head chef Simon Ulph, Caines has developed an eight-course tasting menu, bringing an elevated dining experience to the restaurant. Dishes include Orkney scallop ceviche, confit duck and duck liver terrine, and pan-roasted Brixham turbot with shellfish chowder.

An a la carte menu also forms part of the offering, blending Stafford classics with Caines’ style. Starters include Tartlet of Newlyn Bay red mullet, slow roast quail with celeriac fondant and tarragon jus, and pan-roasted duck liver. For mains, there’s roast guinea fowl or pheasant with pumpkin and cumin red wine jus, hare a la royale with creamed cabbage, and Stoke Marsh Farm Hereford beef with celeriac puree and red wine sauce. You can also choose from a selection of regional cheeses from a trolley, or a range of sweet desserts, including green apple mousse, caramelised white chocolate ganache, and pistachio souffle.