Mistress of Mayfair

Tucked away, just off Piccadilly, Mistress of Mayfair leans hard into 1920s fantasies of glamour and excess. Plush red velvet seating, white tablecloths, cabaret lights and a stage: it’s Moulin Rouge rewired for the Instagram age. DJ sets, surging red strip lights, and a selfie-snapping crowd sipping spicy Margaritas – Mistress of Mayfair is an out-out restaurant. Diners arrive in their glad rags; there’s a caviar selection; and the basement entrance is frankly quite hard to spot if you’re not one of those in the know. Fortunately, the clientele knows exactly what it’s in for.

Gillardeau oysters arrive freshly shucked, with lemon and a classic mignonette. Bluefin tuna tartare balances bitter-sour notes with crunchy diced jalapeño, while yellowtail sashimi comes layered with lip-tingling jalapeno oil and sweet blood orange segments. Simple, uncomplicated, always balanced, raw fish is a solid comfort zone. Against these, beef tartare - though lifted by an intriguing swipe of red pepper ketchup - reads a little dry and underseasoned.

That said, any quibbles disappear with the mains, or rather, ‘The Main Obsession’. A vast dish of orzo – al dente, but bloated with lobster bisque – arrives crowned with a whole lobster and topped with a crisp nest of pomme paille. It delivers on every promise of luxury. Black Angus sirloin receives the same confident treatment, paired with a peppery jus and a daub of black garlic aioli that carries a subtle truffly note. Lemon-dressed broccoli, still pleasingly firm, provides a fresh counterpoint, while ‘Mistress fries’ are crunchy, golden and, as advertised, a necessary sidepiece to the main event.

Desserts reveal the odd wobble. An apple tarte tatin, weighed down by overly generous coils of fruit, leaves its pastry little chance to crisp. But this is not a restaurant that lives or dies by technical perfection. Mistress of Mayfair is about escapism. Come to feel decadent, a bit mischievous, and have every whim catered for. You’ll pay accordingly. But the house wine is elegant, the interiors are romantic, and everything feels just the right amount of naughty. In that, Mistress of Mayfair is a great success.

Mistress of Mayfair was a dream that was brought to life from memories of late nights in Paris, and is now an intimate restaurant on St James Street in Mayfair. This space mixes incredible yet modern French cuisine with fine drinks and a lounge ambience. The decor is a combination of Parisian chic with the glamour and buzz that you expect to find in London. The venue feels like a secret gem that is hidden away, yet is in plain sight. If you want to continue the fun into the night this basement venue has everything you need to get lost in long conversations and exciting flavours.

The menu here is a combination of classic French pairings – so expect to find rich French flavours, creamy sauces and stringy French fries, with a more exciting, modern format. You'll be able to indulge in sharing plates that still offer that same rich flavour but bring in that welcoming, warm essence of French cuisine and sharing with your loved ones on a small table in a bistro, down a side street in Paris. Some of the rich flavours you can expect to share amongst your table are lobster, caviar paired with truffle and a mound of French fries with oysters to tease the deliciousness that is to come throughout the meal. Don't forget to end on a sweet note with a classic apple tart tatin baked in puff pastry with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

The drinks menu is simple, classic, yet unfussy. They do things well here at Mistress of Mayfair, which is why they choose to offer few options yet with great quality. You'll find excellent options of Champagne and classic cocktails that never go out of fashion.