The Black Swan

Squaremeal Review of The Black Swan ?

Sitting in glorious isolation at the junction of two quiet country lanes, this former old boozer has been taken under the wing of local farmers the Banks family to good effect. The pretty bow-windowed pub, which dates from the 16th century, is a seriously comfortable space – all open fires, stone-flagged & wood floors & cheerfully mismatched furniture. In summer, the delightful garden is a fine place to enjoy a pint of Copper Dragon while looking out over the rolling Yorkshire Wolds. The kitchen sources locally, with meat coming from nearby farms, while bread, ice-cream & puddings are made in-house. Old-fashioned salt-beef hash with fried egg & homemade brown sauce is a cracking, honest plateful, & honey-roast duck breast with sticky port wine figs, celeriac puree & bobby beans a great follow-through. Don’t pass on the Oldstead Grange fruit crumble: the owners can supply printed walking notes describing routes radiating from the pub, so you can walk it all off later.

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