SquareMeal Review of
Temple & Sons
Part of the Jason Atherton empire, this two-floor bar and grill has an unassuming exterior, but transports you to London’s East End of old once you’re inside: think dark woods, bartenders with flat caps and cocktails in tin cans. The small, ground-floor bar (a deli by day, selling the likes of game sausage rolls) serves up quirky delights including Yellow Paint, a sharply flavoured, mustard-based cocktail. In the restaurant a light, chill-jam-spiced dish of Isle of Mull scallops might be followed by a hefty helping of fall-off-the-bone pork chop and collar, with a crunchy topping of sage and pine-nut crumb and scraps of crackling. Portions are huge, but the sides are worth saving room for, including barbecue beans with a hint of jalapeño and a coating of gooey, smoked English mozzarella, or a decadent mix of mushroom, garlic, parsley and truffled goats’ curd. Classic Brit desserts, such as sticky toffee pudding with Cornish sea-salted caramel and clotted-cream ice cream, are served in retro china bowls. Despite an over-abundance of (well-drilled) staff which suffocates the comparatively small space, overall this is a minimal-fuss addition to Atherton’s arsenal. With reasonable prices too, we don’t mind being a cheerleader for this champion of British cuisine.