SquareMeal Review of
This restaurant, bar and deli from chef Mark Sargeant is a departure from his Michelin-trained background, offering a run of simple best-of-British dishes to tourists, businessmen and families. Sargeant’s Mess is not easy to find (signage currently still points to its former incarnation The Perkin Reveller), but when you stumble upon its glass frontage (tucked right under Tower Bridge), your efforts will be rewarded with a rather nice outdoor terrace and a light-filled dining space, boasting views of the Thames. It’s a shame then, that the interiors are rather plain, with beach wood tables and chairs and blue wooden dividers that can be moved around the floor to section off larger groups. The food is equally uninspired: fish & chips comes with nicely crispy cod, but is let down by McCain-style chips and a damp mound of mushy peas, while treacle tart lacks the right consistency and is a touch too sweet. While the menu seeks to highlight British classics, it lacks the execution to really show off these much-loved dishes. Nevertheless, the restaurant is well geared towards its audience of visiting tourists and families looking for a simple, relatively affordable meal by one of London’s most well-known landmarks.