There’s a decidedly nautical feel to this riverside restaurant with its oak panelling and enamelled ship’s pendants. Although the menu pays homage to the watery setting with oysters, potted shrimps and fisherman’s pie, the real draw is slabs of 28-day-aged beef, their juices locked in from the blisteringly hot charcoal grill. The fillets, sirloins, rib-eyes and T-bones all come at a price, with hand-cut chips an extra three quid, but there’s financial relief in more affordable mains such as grilled ox liver with mustard mash and onion gravy, or roast rump of lamb with beetroot, carrot and red-wine sauce. For afters, puddings are in the comforting nursery mould of lemon posset or apple crumble and custard. The adjoining bar is a good spot for a pie and a pint at wallet-friendly prices.