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An old-school Italian for Wimbledon’s longer-toothed residents, this branch of the San Lorenzo mini-chain is no place for modern twists, innovation or subtlety. However, with an old-fashioned restaurant comes unhurried gentility and a kitchen that stays rigidly within the boundaries of what it knows. Start with deep-fried whitebait, follow with excellent pizzas, or spaghetti with lobster, or go the whole hog with saltimbocca or veal chop. The dining room, which has looked rather dated for several years, seems to be coming back into its own now, but the best place to be on a summery Sunday is in the lovely garden tucked at the back. The restaurant is very proud of the area’s tennis heritage. It’s the place to catch the crowd during Wimbledon fortnight – book well in advance.
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